We trained flatwork for 3 months before paws hit ANY equipment.. if I could do it again, I would probably spend even more time on foundation stuff. I dug up some old 'foundation' threads for you. Lots of stuff you can do at home!
1. Rear end awareness. Many dogs don't even know they have hind legs. You can work on this by teaching "back up," as well as the following exercise: have your pup stand on a book with her front paws. Then get her to rotate around the book with ONLY her hind legs. Once she masters this, you can make it harder by placing rods/poles on the ground and having her step over them.
2. Sit pretty. Builds core strength
3. Wraps. Have your pup turn in a tight circle around something standing upright. You can use a jump upright or even something simple like a toilet plunger haha. Make sure she can do it in both directions. When she gets better at it you can start sending her to it from further away.
4. Teach left and right. Have her spin in both directions, while saying said direction. You can also have her stand in front of you - tap her right side while saying "right." When she turns her head right, reward! Repeat with the left side.
5. Restrained recalls. Have someone old your pup while you run away from her and call her with a treat or toy in one hand. Reward her when she runs to the side you have the reward in. Repeat with the other side.
6. Circle work. Run in a circle with her on one side - correct any nipping/jumping. Work on this in both directions and with her on both your outer and inner side.
And...
As you already know a puppy and puppies should not be doing things like jumping, weaving and full height contact obstacles until their growth plates have closed; about 1 year old for a Sheltie but check with your breeder and/or vet to be certain.
Your puppy will also have a very short attention span so you'll only be able to work with him/her for short periods of time.
Here's a few things based on my experience in starting out:
1 - Obedience requirements: I think a better description here is BEHAVIOR basics rather than obedience because it's easy to confuse what you need for agility with competitive obedience. (Not that more advanced obedience is a bad thing. I had my CGC when I started agility training.) What you should have are basic behaviors - Sit, Stay, Down, and a very good recall. You can start without these in some clubs (like mine for instance) but it is highly recommended and encouraged - especially when you start off leash work. As an agility instructor, the most difficult dogs to work with are the ones with absolutely NO basic behavior/manners training.
2 - Tunnels: A child's play tunnel like the ones described here are perfect for indoors because they are small and short. An actual agility training tunnel would be a bit unruly indoors, especially if you don't have a lot of room.
3 - Teaching where his back legs are: Believe it or not, dogs don't really realize they have rear legs; or more specifically don't usually pay attention to where they are in relation to their front. So, we have to teach them. This skill is necessary for jump but more so for contacts like the dog walk and teeter, which are narrow. There are two different exercises you can do here:
Ladder work: Place an extension ladder on the ground and walk him through it. Do NOT expect him to go through the entire thing the first time through. Start by rewarding him for starting to walk through it, even if he bails after a few steps. Slowly increase what he has to do with the ladder to receive the reward (get halfway across, get all the way across, get half way WITHOUT touching a rung, get all the way WITHOUT touching a rung.)
Walk the plank: Put a plank of wood on the floor roughly 2x4x8. (You can do 2x4x4 if you can find that in the scrap wood or have a hardware store cut a 2x4x8 board in half for you.) Start by rewarding him for putting his feet on it. Increase the requirement for the treat by having him walk across it (all 4 paws don't have to be on at this time). Increase the requirement again by making sure he keeps all 4 paws on the board. Stopping at the end is NOT required for this exercise. If you want to make it a little more difficult, you can put something under the board to raise it off the floor by about 6 inches.
4 - Teach targeting: Get the lid from a margarine container. Hold it in your hand perpendicular to the floor. Reward when he touches his nose to it. (A dab of peanut butter as bait helps when first starting.) As he gets proficient at it, add the word "target" to the action. Next step: place the lid on the floor; reward when he touches it with his nose. (MAKE SURE he's touching it with his nose before you reward. Some dogs, after a little while, will go through the motion but won't actually touch the lid. You DO NOT want to reward that.) Again, add the word Target as he gets proficient at this. Finally, slowly start to move the target away from you and send him to it with a "Target" command from a sit stay. You can bait the target with a treat to get him started but still reward correct behavior even if you bait.
Target training and 2o2o training go hand in hand. We use targets at the end of contact obstacles when training 2o2o because it gives the dog a reason to stop. Even if the target is baited, we still reward the correct 2o2o behavior.
5 - Flatwork - something for when your pup is a few months old: This is one of the foundations for agility; it's what happens between the obstacles. It includes things like 'recall to heel', basic sends, turning skills like front & rear crosses, etc. This is something you can definitely start working on without worrying about the dog's joints. Clean Run, the only magazine on the market for agility that I know of, has a book available called "Flatwork - Foundation for Agility" by by Barb Levenson (
http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fu...&ParentCat=261).
6 - Teach 2 On 2 Off: Using the same plank as above... once he can walk across with all 4 paws on the board, start requiring him to stop at the end with 2 paws on the board and 2 on the floor (2 on 2 off or 2o2o). If you want to make this a little more difficult, raise the board off the floor by 6 inches.
7 - Wobble board: This helps the pup learn to get use to movement under their feet and helps prepare them for the Teeter. I've made an "at home" wobble board with a 3x3 piece of plywood and stuck and tennis ball under it. With a pup, you can get a smaller tennis ball at a pet store and start with that and work up to a full size ball. The idea is to have something move under under their feet.
