I have a male sheltie puppy almost 5 months old and he is quite aggresive towards me at times. At first I kept saying its his teeth but as time goes on it seems to be worse. I had shelties years ago and they were nothing like this one does anyone have any siggestions please as I a, getting concerned.
puppy behaviour
- Thread starter marion
- Start date
The puppy needs to learn bite inhibition. Basically, it is control of his mouth. There are several positive and slightly negative ways of doing this. The most common is to swap out for something that should be in his mouth. He goes to bite or chew on you and you say NO, give him a sock with a knot in it, a kong, or something OK and say YES GOOD. There's also the harsh NO every time he puts his mouth on you. It's just a loud disapproving tone in your voice. The very best thing is lots of play time with an adult dog. Adults show the pups how to use the mouth appropriately.
The best training Kaleigh got was with Joy (she is 10)-my neighbor's collie, every time Kaleigh got too nippy or too bite-y, Joy would put her front paw on Kaleigh's head, as if to say, no, it was the cutest thing. Joy was very patient, and kept doing this to Kaleigh and it sunk in. She never growled or anything, she just would put her paw on her head and Kaleigh would calm down and stop nipping. So find a really gentle spirited adult dog and they will definitely teach the young pup appropriate behavior. So I totally concur...with Savannah, my younger one, it was winter when I got her, and so I couldn't get to my mt property as often due to the weather, she missed out on this interaction, and I can say Kaleigh learned WAY better than Savannah has.
Silaria
Forums Sage
I have a 5 month old who's a bit mouthy when he plays and sometimes when we are loving on him, especially if he gets over excited. He has GREAT bite inhibition, I just don't want teeth on skin at all so I say a loud "ow!" and all play and attention stops briefly. My hands go behind my back so he can't continue to try and 'get them' as part of his game. When he calms down, play resumes.
If he continues to go for hands with teeth, he gets a firm 'no', and redirected to a toy. (I always have toys within reach.) When I have to result to giving him a toy, I don't tug with him, I just give him the toy to chew on. Usually after a few minutes he'll come back over an want interaction again.
If he continues to go for hands with teeth, he gets a firm 'no', and redirected to a toy. (I always have toys within reach.) When I have to result to giving him a toy, I don't tug with him, I just give him the toy to chew on. Usually after a few minutes he'll come back over an want interaction again.
I am totally lucky my old Aussie taught the shepherd pup and the shepherd who was 3 last year taught the sheltie pup & so did my older sheltie. That bite inhibition is critical. Dogs should never even believe they might even think of putting mouth on human. However, with the shelties usually some OW and NO and CHEW THIS INSTEAD (give toy) sinks in. Don't let the habit continue though.
vickaaayhay
Forums Regular
There are lots of great suggestions on here
I just wanted to add that when my sheltie was young I frequently fed her her meal by hand. If your puppy is food-motivated, it's a good exercise to teach bite-inhibition and that his/her puppy teeth hurt!
When she was too eager to grab the food and would poke me with her teeth, I would jerk back with an "OW!" and wait maybe 10 seconds before continuing.
Then again my sheltie has always had a gentle nature
I hope this resolves soon!!
I just wanted to add that when my sheltie was young I frequently fed her her meal by hand. If your puppy is food-motivated, it's a good exercise to teach bite-inhibition and that his/her puppy teeth hurt!When she was too eager to grab the food and would poke me with her teeth, I would jerk back with an "OW!" and wait maybe 10 seconds before continuing.
Then again my sheltie has always had a gentle nature
I hope this resolves soon!!
Caro
Moderator
Your puppy is still right in the height of teething and even once they all break through, it takes a while for them to settle in their jaw. So they can still have jaw pain into early adolescence.
I agree with the suggestions already given so I just want to add a couple more thoughts. When the mouthing starts all play should stop. If he doesn't want to redirect onto a toy then cross your arms (so he can't get to them) and ignore him until he settles down. Also, when you play with him always have a toy in your hand - don't use your hands to play until he learns that hands are not toys.
I agree with the suggestions already given so I just want to add a couple more thoughts. When the mouthing starts all play should stop. If he doesn't want to redirect onto a toy then cross your arms (so he can't get to them) and ignore him until he settles down. Also, when you play with him always have a toy in your hand - don't use your hands to play until he learns that hands are not toys.
Maybe Joy will want to take a job as teacher to unruly pups.
There seems to be a "market" for it. 
(I have a feeling that we will be in need of such services as time goes on. LOL)Neighbor used to have an older CGC female that would "teach" pups "the ropes" in ways owners could never. Wish she was still available for that kind of teaching.
Both my breeder and trainer have said when the puppy nips, yip as loud as you can - like you were a littermate. Then, you ignore the puppy for about 30 seconds to a minute. Then you can resume normal play.
You can also try the trade up routine. When the puppy is playing too rough with you, redirect onto a toy.
Eventually, your puppy will catch on. Make sure you also have lots of different things for him to chew on so your hands don't become the chew toys
You can also try the trade up routine. When the puppy is playing too rough with you, redirect onto a toy.
Eventually, your puppy will catch on. Make sure you also have lots of different things for him to chew on so your hands don't become the chew toys