Situational Aggression

B

brittlestix

Forums Novice
Hello,

We have a 1 year old sheltie who has some aggression issues, and I was hoping for some training advice. Several times recently she has growled and bitten me for removing a desired food item (i.e., something she wasn't supposed to eat, but got a hold of when our backs were turned), or when I've tried to pull her away from an object she has been fixated on (i.e., computer tower with flashing lights). The growling is pretty vicious, and while she hasn't broken my skin, the biting is also pretty nasty. When she was younger, we were told by a vet to do the following when she shows aggression issues/nipping: [gently] flip her on her back or side, and hold her at her neck like a pack leader would do until she calms down and stays in that position without restraint and until we tell her she can get up. We also hold eye contact with her during this process.

Obviously, this does not seem to be working, so I'm wondering if anyone on this site has other strategies for these situations. While this doesn't happen that often, it happens enough that it's clear there's a problem. I am also uncomfortable leaving her with others or with children, because of the possibility they could encounter this situation and get scared or potentially hurt.

I have training in applied behavior analysis, so I try to mostly stick with positive training techniques. As you can imagine, I don't enjoy the above described technique, but it's paramount that she learn boundaries and submissiveness. Any advice on the best way to handle her would be welcome.

Thank you,

B.
 
Hey there, sounds scary! Sorry to hear of your troubles
I am sorry to say that this type of training is outdated and the silly alpha rolls should NEVER be repeated, it's obviously NOT working and made it worse!! This gets people bit, and a dog that won't trust you.
Dogs knowwwww you're not a dog, no need to apply these old techniques anymore.
Get your dog interested in something else INSTEAD of what he is obsessing over and give him a reward for letting go of something else... it also teaches some impulse control which is another step I would recommend.
Try to manage those situations as MUCH as possible if you know what gets him to resource guard so that he won't get to repeat and then practice the behaviour which then may become self rewarding

Here is some reading:
http://www.sublimecanine.ca/free-advice/resource-guarding.html
These are my instructors who work with rescue dogs and own 8 rescues themselves. They have been in the business and worked with the local SPCA for almost 15 years and only got bit once I think... unlike those awful popular TV trainers that get bit every other show because they mismanage the situation AND aggravate the dog instead of working with it...

Here is a clicker training link:
http://www.clickertraining.com/node/1785
http://www.sublimecanine.ca/free-advice/feisty-fidos.html

and this is what one of the best behaviourist and trainers has on resource guarding, Ian Dunbar:
http://www.dogstardaily.com/training/guarding-valued-objects
 
Last edited:
brittlestix said:
Hello,





I have training in applied behavior analysis, so I try to mostly stick with positive training techniques. As you can imagine, I don't enjoy the above described technique, but it's paramount that she learn boundaries and submissiveness. Any advice on the best way to handle her would be welcome.

Thank you,

B.
Click to expand...
Nope it is not paramount to learn submissiveness. Positive training is about teaching to to offer behaviors.
http://www.zazzle.com/positive_reinforcement_dog_training_16_x_20_poster-228677749132075013
yep, teach her to retrieve.
Get old dry rawhide and give it to her, exchange for best tasting piece of steak you can find. Keep doing it with other things, exchanging low value stuff for really high ones. Should have done it when she was a puppy.
 
Oh dear, definately stop the alpha roll - it has been shown to cause increased aggression in many dogs. As mentioned, dogs do know you're the human and they're the dog. Alpha rolls can be very confusing for a dog and answering aggression with aggression will usually not work.

There's a few things going on. Your dog is in adolescence, it's a very confusing time for them. Boundaries and routine are really important to establish. A modified Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program could help. It's basically asking your dog to do something to get something in return. It's the same thing when you get your dog to sit before feeding or going out the door, you extend this to other activities as well. It teaches self control as well as manners and boudaries. It is a much better way to teach boundaries because you are teaching them what the need to do to get what they want.

The other issue is resource guarding. It's common for a dog to want to protect one of the few things they 'own'. To combat resource guarding the best thing you can do is teach the dog to 'exchange' items. When she has something exchange it for another desirable item like a toy. You can practice this by giving her something and then swap another item of equal value with her. If you start with toys you can make it a fun game. Let her play with one toy and then give her another toy to swap and play with her with the swapped toy, and just keep swapping. Get her used to giving things to you. When she fixates on the computer lights get a squeaky toy and squeak it at her to distract her and focus her on something else.
 
*Caro said:
Oh dear, definately stop the alpha roll - it has been shown to cause increased aggression in many dogs. As mentioned, dogs do know you're the human and they're the dog. Alpha rolls can be very confusing for a dog and answering aggression with aggression will usually not work.

There's a few things going on. Your dog is in adolescence, it's a very confusing time for them. Boundaries and routine are really important to establish. A modified Nothing in Life is Free (NILIF) program could help. It's basically asking your dog to do something to get something in return. It's the same thing when you get your dog to sit before feeding or going out the door, you extend this to other activities as well. It teaches self control as well as manners and boudaries. It is a much better way to teach boundaries because you are teaching them what the need to do to get what they want.

The other issue is resource guarding. It's common for a dog to want to protect one of the few things they 'own'. To combat resource guarding the best thing you can do is teach the dog to 'exchange' items. When she has something exchange it for another desirable item like a toy. You can practice this by giving her something and then swap another item of equal value with her. If you start with toys you can make it a fun game. Let her play with one toy and then give her another toy to swap and play with her with the swapped toy, and just keep swapping. Get her used to giving things to you. When she fixates on the computer lights get a squeaky toy and squeak it at her to distract her and focus her on something else.
Click to expand...

not to detract from the thread but just listened to Kathy talking about NILIF
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btUpHxLotAM&feature=relmfu
makes your brain spin...:lol:
 
I echo Caro's suggestions and would like to throw in hand feeding of meals. One kibble at a time! This drives home the point that you control the resources and that you're pretty darn generous with it so there's no need to guard anything. It also does wonders for your relationship with the dog in general.
 
SheltieChe said:
not to detract from the thread but just listened to Kathy talking about NILIF
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btUpHxLotAM&feature=relmfu
makes your brain spin...:lol:
Click to expand...

Interesting. I've always been wary about the NILIF moniker because of the baggage it carries. The modified program really is about teaching a dog self-control, boundaries and expectations not establishing alpha or ignoring the dog. If you can find another term for it I'd love to hear. I'm always worried when I explain it to students at the club that they will go look up NILIF on the internet and get all the scary stuff.
 
Thanks all,

It's frustrating that a trusted vet strongly advised us to use an outdated training technique for handling this particular behavior.... but I should have known better and stopped it sooner when I realized it wasn't working/didn't mesh with my own training/learning perspectives.

Your suggestions are extremely helpful and expand upon the techniques we already use for most of her behavior training. She's a quick learner, so I'm confident we can get this under control with some patience and fidelity to program.

-B
 
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