A stubborn little dog

Having a reliable recall is something that I'm working on with Romeo too. When we're at a dog park, if he's busy playing, I don't exist! And if I take out his favourite liver treats, ALL the dogs in the park will be sitting at my feet (but mine, probably). I want his recall to be automatic if possible. I call, he comes, like an automatic response.

I've gotten our trainer to teach us how to strengthen his recall and have also watched this video called Really Reliable Recall (RRR) and picked up a few tips!

1. This is pretty basic - never call your dog to come for anything other than good stuff (treats/play). Don't call him to come to punish or do anything he hates like taking baths or nail cutting. Some dogs don't like being patted too so don't pat your dog when he comes if he doesn't like it.

2. In the RRR video, it was advised that you only call your dog to you when you are 100% sure your dog will come to you. Don't ever call when you're not sure if the dog will actually respond. You can call him to come when he's already running to you also. I think the idea is to drill it into him through repetition.

3. Whenever you call your dog to come, always have treats with you. And feed treats (broken up into small bits) for at least 30secs. This is called "fine dining" as opposed to "fast food" where you just give one piece and that's all. The dog will go "ooh! what did I do to deserve THIS!" when it gets food over and over for a longer period.

4. Say "Come" or whatever word you use only ONCE. Don't repeat it ("Romeo come! COME Romeo! Come! COME!" bad!!!) Say Come! Then use sounds like "pup-pup-pup-pup", lip smacking, slapping of thighs, tongue clicking, whistles, etc to encourage a quicker recall.

5. One of the ways to strengthen the recall, which our trainer suggested and which I think can complement the above tips, is to have 2 people train with the dog. One is the handler and the other, the helper. The helper will hold the treats (handler should remove treat pouch, etc from her body) and will keep the dog occupied by letting the dog sniff the treats he's holding. Then the handler will, standing apart from them, call the dog to Come. Call once, then use all the sounds you can conjure to entice the dog AWAY from the helper (whom it knows has treats)! When the dog leaves the helper and goes to the handler, the handler praises enthusiastically but the helper gives the treats. The dog learns that in order to get what he wants (the treats) he has to go away from it to you when you call, in order to get it.

6. This one follows from #5 above. Once the dog is leaving the helper easily and going to the handler when called, you can put the dog on a sit stay and both the helper and handler will walk away from the dog and stand apart from each other so it forms like a triangle with handler, helper and dog at each corner. The handler calls the dog to come, but because the dog knows the treats are with the helper, the dog will run to the helper first. The handler should make the same sounds to entice the dog over to her. When the dog finally makes it over to the handler, handler praises, helper treats. Eventually the dog will ignore the helper holding the treats and run for the handler even though he knows the handler isn't the one with the goodies, because he knows that when he goes to the handler, there is the PROMISE of goodies.

As with all training, start at short distances and low distractions first, then work up distance in the low distraction area before moving to a higher distraction area. Whenever you increase the distraction, go back to training with short distances.

Hope that helps! I wouldn't expect overnight miracles. I would think something like this will take some time to train into the dog.
 
So how long of a lead should I use? Are we talking a few hundred feet or 30-40? Like I said, his recall is fine when we are close, but when he wanders off, that is when it goes out the window. I would love to try and train steps 5 and 6 as mentioned below, but I live alone, so finding a 'helper' is a bit tough. (I'll try and find someone, but unfortunately it will not be as often as I would like it to be :no:)
I've tried 'running' the other way, going out of sight (well, he actually goes out of my sight) and nothing. He has his mind set and that's it. I really need to get him under my control otherwise all his outings to the dog park will be on a leash :cry: and Maia will be the only one allowed to play freely. (which she will just hang around and jump all over him)
Thanks for the advice so far.
 
romeosangiovese - that sounds like a good plan - I need to work on my other dog with that :smile2:

sheltiemom- good luck with Mobius- you know the dogs will listen much better :wink2:
 
Recalls are very important. Don't let your dog get away with pushing your buttons on it because it can be the difference in a life or death situation. Start with teaching back up comes. Put your dog on leash, have a treat in hand, start backing up quickly (encourages the dog to move) and tell your dog to come (Fido, come!). Praise and release the treat to your dog when it comes. If they do not go to you with the first command, you can use your leash to give your dog a light pop to get its attention. If you have to pop, the dog does not get a treat. The dog should only get a treat when it does exactly what you asked. Otherwise, you are praising it for ignoring you and waiting for you to correct it. The dog will learn very quickly that it needs to do that right in order to get the treat. The dog does not get to pick and choose when it feels like coming. You also do not repeat your commands. You give the command once, and it means the dog needs to get up and come NOW. With the pop, you do need to know your dog. Most shelties are very soft and do not need much of a pop. Bigger/less sensitive dogs may need a stronger pop to get their attention. Once they're doing this well, move to different areas (the yard, the park, at a friends, whereever) so the dog learns it has to do this regardless of where you are. Once that is all going fine, add in distractions. Go to the dog park and practice there so the dog sees it has to respond even when it would rather play with its' friends than pay attention to what you say. Once all that is accomplished, you move on to greater distances. A long line, like a laundry line works well. Snap it on, put your dog in a sit or down, move away from your dog, and ask it to come. If it refuses, give it a pop. You may also want to try leaving the laundry line on while your dog plays with other dogs, then try and recall him/her, and if the dog doesn't respond, you can still use the line to get their attention. Eventually you'll be able to move on to not using a leash/line, but at first, you need to instill in your dog that it has to come every time you ask, and if it's loose, and decides it doesn't wish to come, you have no real way of correcting the behavior other than to chase. I know this seems kind of tedious, but it's so important. For example, what if your dog runs out into the road, and your dog doesn't have a reliable come? It could end up being hit by a car.
 
How I trained mine was using a 30 feet "lead leash"

1) Put the dog on the lead and hold it about 10 feet from their collar so they do not have alot of drag

2) I walk the dog a few feet and make him sit and stay.

3) I the walk behind him in a 190° circle so I am now in front of him. I then hold my hand out showing the"stay" command and start walking . When I reach the 10 foot mark I drop the line telling him to stay and sit. If he decided to come join me or take off I can step on the lead top stop him if needed. I let or make him sit for about 45 seconds then tell him to come and make sure he comes directly to me. If he does not come directly to me I can step on the lad and he stops When he does I praise the daylights out of him. I he does not listen I start all over

4) I do this a few times each day. The next step is to hold the lad t 15 feet, then 20 feet until I have mastered him up to the 30 foot length.

5) Once he sits and stays on command I then walk the 30 foot length dropping the lead close my foot just in case. Once I am the full 30 feet I call him to come, but once he is about 20 feet from me I tell him to sit. If he does not I start all over with step #5. Some of my dogs had to repeat step #5 many times.

6) the final step to this is to put pupper in a area should he not listen or sit where he cannot run away like a fenced in area. I remove the leash from the dog and make hm sit there until I am about 30 feet away. I make him sit then walk away from him. Once I am far enough away. I tell him to come and make him stop at various distances. Each time he stops on command I verbally praise him from the distance. This can take a few days consistant work but it has never failed for me.

Keep in mind most shelties can learn a new command or behavior with consistant training with 5-7 tries

 
Very timely post!

My boys are in their terrible two's for sure. Recall is "if they feel like it" or "if I've got nothing better to do!" :rolleyes2:

So it's back to basics for both of them.

Thanks for the great tips!
 
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