Get started in agility?

Sheltie.Mama

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Okay, i am getting this gorgeous little puppy.. And I would like to get her and maybe even my other Sheltie into agility.. I have never done it before so, I am just curious about anything I should know, and how I can get started ect. Thank you!
 
First and foremost, keep in mind your dog is a puppy and puppies should not be doing things like jumping, weaving and full height contact obstacles until their growth plates have closed; about 1 year old.

Your puppy will also have a very short attention span so you'll only be able to work with him/her for short periods of time.

Here's a few things based on my experience in starting out:

(You can use a clicker for any of these exercises - just mark the correct behavior with a click/treat.)

1 - Obedience requirements: I think a better description here is BEHAVIOR basics rather than obedience because it's easy to confuse what you need for agility with competitive obedience. (Not that more advanced obedience is a bad thing. I had my CGC when I started agility training.) What you should have are basic behaviors - Sit, Stay, Down, and a very good recall. You can start without these in some clubs (like mine for instance) but it is highly recommended and encouraged - especially when you start off leash work.

2 - Tunnels: A child's play tunnel like the ones described here are perfect for indoors because they are small and short. An actual agility training tunnel would be a bit unruly indoors, especially if you don't have a lot of room.

3 - Teaching you do where his back legs are: Believe it or not, dogs don't really realize they have rear legs; or more specifically don't usually pay attention to where they are in relation to their front. So, we have to teach them. This skill is necessary for jump but more so for contacts like the dog walk and teeter, which are narrow. There are two different exercises you can do here:

Ladder work: Place an extension ladder on the ground and walk him through it. Do NOT expect him to go through the entire thing the first time through. Start by rewarding him for starting to walk through it, even if he bails after a few steps. Slowly increase what he has to do with the ladder to receive the reward (get halfway across, get all the way across, get half way WITHOUT touching a rung, get all the way WITHOUT touching a rung.)
Walk the plank: Put a plank of wood on the floor roughly 2x4x8. (You can do 2x4x4 if you can find that in the scrap wood or have a hardware store cut a 2x4x8 board in half for you.) Start by rewarding him for putting his feet on it. Increase the requirement for the treat by having him walk across it (all 4 paws don't have to be on at this time). Increase the requirement again by making sure he keeps all 4 paws on the board. Stopping at the end is NOT required for this exercise. If you want to make it a little more difficult, you can put something under the board to raise it off the floor by about 6 inches.

4 - Teach targeting: Get the lid from a margarine container. Hold it in your hand perpendicular to the floor. Reward when he touches his nose to it. As he gets proficient at it, add the word "target" to the action. Next step: place the lid on the floor; reward when he touches it with his nose. (MAKE SURE he's touching it with his nose before you reward. Some dogs, after a little while, will go through the motion but won't actually touch the lid. You DO NOT want to reward that.) Again, add the word Target as he gets proficient at this. Finally, slowly start to move the target away from you and send him to it with a "Target" command from a sit stay. You can bait the target with a treat to get him started but still reward correct behavior even if you bait.

Target training and 2o2o training go hand in hand. We use targets at the end of contact obstacles when training 2o2o because it gives the dog a reason to stop. Even if the target is baited, we still reward the correct 2o2o behavior.

5 - Flatwork - something for when your pup is a few months old: This is one of the foundations for agility; it's what happens between the obstacles. It includes things like 'recall to heel', basic sends, turning skills like front & rear crosses, etc. This is something you can definitely start working on without worrying about the dog's joints. Clean Run, the only magazine on the market for agility that I know of, has a book available called "Flatwork - Foundation for Agility" by by Barb Levenson (http://www.cleanrun.com/index.cfm?fu...&ParentCat=261). I looked on Amazon for this but they only have 1 used copy available and the seller is charging TWICE as much as a NEW copy from Clean Run would be.

6 - Teach 2 On 2 Off: Using the same plank as above... once he can walk across with all 4 paws on the board, start requiring him to stop at the end with 2 paws on the board and 2 on the floor (2 on 2 off or 2o2o). If you want to make this a little more difficult, raise the board off the floor by 6 inches.
 
Silaria information is great. I recommend focusing on the obedience part first. Sits, downs, stays, come when called, wait, watch me. I highly recommend start with puppy class (either kindergarten, or S.T.A.R. puppy) and then do a regular obedience class (basic) and then puppy Agility/basic Agility and work your way up. But, your obedience will be the basic foundations for Agility. I drill Ruutu on stays all the time. Honey has a perfect start line stay and will not move unless told. The rest of Agility will come in time when in puppy Agility and up.
 
Find a good dog school in your area. Talk to them about all they offer and set up a plan. They will tell you what they recommend in what order and when. Remember, certain things your pup will not physically be able to do until bones and muscles grow. Other things are hard for little ones until they mentally develop. AND since you will have a Spring puppy (especially more-so than other times of year) you will be keeping that pup isolated at home or in very very careful environments until all shots are done. Don't risk parvo by taking the puppy to unsafe places too early. Learn about parvo. Getting older dogs does not prepare you for the super super care you have to take to protect little ones from parvo, kennel cough, and the respiratory illnesses until all shots are done at 4 months.

There are puppy classes and puppy things you can work on at home. Any dog school will require a basic obedience class first. Then you can continue obedience and/or move into some easy things until your puppy is grown up enough to handle physically and mentally the more advanced things. I would recommend spending time looking in the area for a dog school that is well respected with teachers who know what they are doing and one tha offers a variety of activities.

Since you won't get your puppy for awhile, why not take your other dog to a class so YOU can get used to working the dog, working the way the school teaches, and get over nerves at doing things. Everyone is nervous the first time and kind of clumsy at teaching the dog, by the second, you know what to do and help the dog do it much better.

Doing dog activties is a GREAT goal and a process throughout a dog's life. Find a really good school with teachers you are comfortable with.
 
PS -- did you say you are getting a girl puppy? You may want to consider a boy puppy if not already chosen as a lot of times having a boy and a girl works out easier than two girls. If you are indeed going with two girls, start looking in to posts how to help them live peacefully. It depends on who wants to lead and who wants to follow and if two want to lead lookout! Two boys are pretty easy going, a boy and a girl tend to work out as the boy lets the girl lead, but two girls can (but not always) be a little crazy because they sometimes both want to be boss. Sometimes the puppy will just fit right in and see the older girl as leader but sometimes when she grows up they start to argue about who gets to be leader. Just something more to start learning so you can watch for trouble before anything starts.
 
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