Caro
Moderator
It helps if you can try the different head halters to see which sits on their noses better and which you prefer to use. One problem I find with the GL (I fit them at the dog club shop) is that people often have it sitting too low at the back - it needs to sit just below the ears rather than on their necks so the loop is below their eyes.
All head halters should be connected to the dogs normal collar as this will take pressure of the neck and also make it harder to get off. All the head collar brands now recommend this be done. They can be connected with an additional connector strap (which is just like a very short lead) or with a double lead.
On Monday I am going to look at a new design of head collar for our Club shop, its a combination martingale/head collar where the lead goes on the back (here its made by a company called Black Dog and its called the Infini-8 collar). It looks like it will be good for dogs that are between the head collar (for very reactive dogs or big time pullers) and the no-pull harnesses (for mildly reactive dogs or pullers only).
All head halters should be connected to the dogs normal collar as this will take pressure of the neck and also make it harder to get off. All the head collar brands now recommend this be done. They can be connected with an additional connector strap (which is just like a very short lead) or with a double lead.
On Monday I am going to look at a new design of head collar for our Club shop, its a combination martingale/head collar where the lead goes on the back (here its made by a company called Black Dog and its called the Infini-8 collar). It looks like it will be good for dogs that are between the head collar (for very reactive dogs or big time pullers) and the no-pull harnesses (for mildly reactive dogs or pullers only).