Heeling/Walking training, do you use a leash?

[BarbV]

I agree with puppy class. It trains them to deal with distractions while learning to walk on lead.

But also, don't get too complicated. Teaching a dog to walk on a lead is an incremental process.

When you first start, you might not get past your driveway. Your dog may either be terrified or pulling anxiously forward.

It's really not that complicated. If the dog is terrified, then you may baby steps. If the dog is pulling in excitement, then you maintain a short lead and sometimes stop, put dog into a sit, treat and praise. Then move on. Or you call the dog's attention back to you.

One of the best training techniques is "look at me". It starts in the home. With treat in hand, put your dog into a site and raise treat in hand towards your eye while saying a command like "look" (it really doesn't matter what the word is, but you want them to make eye contact with you). When they meet your eye, praise and treat. Repeat over and over.

Then you can start taking it outside on walks. use the same tricks outside. Dog on short lead, use the command word (e.g. look) if dogs starts to pull, gently pull dog back then treat.

I personally hate to see Shelties in harnesses...they are so trainable, that I think its owners not having the skills to train or the time to train.

 

[seashel]

Don't skip puppy class! It is so important to give your pup a chance to learn to interact with other dogs, and the earlier you can start those interactions, the better. You may be able to train all the tricks in the world at home, but it is a whole different ball game repeating those tricks outside your pup's comfort zone. Even for Olive, who is a Fierce She-Beast at home and is spot-on with everything obedience-wise, new places create new issues and often it feels like I have to start her back at square one - and she has always been a well-socialized pup (just crazy).

It's great to have a CGC goal in mind. Just remember that puppy class, and basic obedience classes, are important stepping stones that benefit not just your puppy, but you! You can only learn so much from these forums and videos; there is no substitute for hands-on learning in group classes. As far as I know, there is no prereq for the CGC test. But most training clubs (at least in my area) require a minimum of two obedience classes (puppy+beg, beg+inter, etc) before enrolling in the CGC class. Dogs have a better background, and just as if not more importantly, so do their owners.

Olive's puppy class was fantastic. She was buddies with the big GSD puppies, and now her buddy in her obedience class is a big goofy GSD. Her first obedience class was an enlightening experience, not at all in a good way, but the lessons learned were invaluable and now that we're in a great training club, I learn new things every week from the trainers and our classmates. Plus Olive, even though she is freaked out most of the time (most reactive sheltie I've ever met), enjoys hanging out with her buddies and jumping over agility equipment that happens to be within her reach.

I agree, please don't skip puppy class. They are so important especially with a breed like ours for socialisation as well as the training. It's also a lot of fun to learn side by side with other puppy owners and you will learn a lot from watching each other.

Zelda is a speedy girl, as well as being a whippet she's also being motivated/rewarded for showing 'drive' which is desirable for sports like agility. Of my dogs, only Epic was anything like that and he is a handful!!

A lot of people who just basically want a well behaved pet don't bother putting in the effort that you are and then they wonder why their dog misbehaves. The training you are giving Sammy will set her up for life and you will definitly see the benefits of investing the time teaching her. Food/toy as encouragement for good on lead walking is the right way to go

Just one thing to be careful about, with having limited time available, try to avoid the temptation to squeeze too much in. That is something I'm guilty of ! In 30 minutes with a puppy Sammy's age probably 10 minutes 'training' is about the maximum - broken down into short 2-3 minute sessions with some play in between. Play is actually training too, she will be learning the rules such as giving up her toy when you ask and bite inhibition. It's a fantastic way of bonding with a puppy and you can never have too much of it. As an example, the second weave video I posted was filmed over a 10 minute session and for at least four minutes we were playing away from the weave poles.

Also, if you can, try and have your sessions after she has had a sleep so she'll be fresh and before she's been fed as she'll be keener then.

Canine Good Neighbor sounds a lot like our Good Citizen award.

 

[SammysDaddy]

Thank you everyone for their input and suggestions.

On pivot box training, after our 4th session, Sammy has started moving the back legs on her own, and with a little bit of hand/food encouragement she would move all the way flush to my legs (though only counter-clockwise). I am very happy with her progress, knowing this particular exercise takes a long time to learn. I have also been putting the leash on Sammy more now, and she is getting better at it.

And I will take everyone's advise and look into puppy classes, for now I have taken Sammy along when I pick up my kids from school, and there is usually a line up of kids at school wanting to pet Sammy, so that's my socialization so far. No contact with other dogs yet, and I have carried her to the school since she haven't even gotten her second shots yet.

 

[seashel]

Great work Like the Hare and the Tortoise story, slow and steady is the best way to suceed with dog training.

I'm not surprised Sammy has a fan club at school, she's a little poppet!