With show grooming, in the UK it is rather different from the US. There is not nearly as much trimming, so that will make your job easier for a start. The following is the routine I follow when getting ready for a show:
The first thing to ensure is that you have a reasonably clean dog to begin with. I don't think there is a need to do a full bath before every show and in fact, it's best not to as it will soften the coat. That is something you will want to avoid, especially with a tri as they naturally tend to have softer coats than sables and merles. If you do think a bath is necessary to freshen the coat (I find the tri coat does seem to get lifeless after a while) then it needs to be done a week to ten days before the show to allow the natural oils to come back in. It will also be necessary to give a bath if the coat is 'blowing' (moulting) as that shifts the hair more quickly. This is the only time that you will want to be removing the undercoat (dead hair is unsightly and uncomfortable for the dog). Undercoat is a critical element to the coat structure as shelties should have a double coat so it stays put unless moulting.
The evening before a show, I will wash the white areas, legs feet, bib belly and tail tip if necessary. I just use a normal dog shampoo to be honest. A note on 'coat preparations' is that there are a lot available for sale around dog shows. Do they make a difference? Possibly but I'm not convinced and as there shouldn't be any artificial substance in the dog's coat when it goes into the ring, really where's the point? (The use of coat products is currently a hot topic under discussion and plainly people use products that alter the coat in other breeds). However, with shelties the judge will be wanting to feel a natural, clean coat so it is best to stick with the basics, especially while you are learning the ropes.
Once the whites are washed I like to do the full groom the night before. You never know if you will get held up and at least if you arrive 5 minutes before judging you will be more or less ready to go. That's happened too often to me to want to take any chances! Full groom is deep brushing throughout the coat going down to the skin (I use my Mason Pearson bristle brush but everyone has their own preferences). You will need to ensure that all areas are brushed out, including the neck ruff and the long hair around the rear end plus tail. Make sure that area is clean too obviously! Comb through the short hair on the legs, there is often a lot of dead hair at the top of the front legs and around the stifles.
With a 9 month pup, you will need to pay close attention to knots around the ears which are reasonably likely as the hair is very soft. I think it is much easier to work by feel than sight to locate knots. Obviously they need gently teasing out - sometimes a slicker brush can be useful. If you can possibly avoid it, don't break out the scissors as there will be an unsightly chop mark unless you are very delicate. If it is really necessary, don't cut across the hair but down into the knot away from the skin. This breaks the knot open is a less drastic way than cutting it out.
Leading onto trimming. Very difficult to guide here, as it depends on the dog as to what is necessary. Do this if you can the week before. This gives small mistakes a chance to grow out a bit! Remember that you can't put it back so just remove very little at a time. If in doubt, leave it! The legs and feet are the easier task. I stand the dog on a black rubber car mat so stray hairs show up. Get someone to hold the puppy for this if at all possible because shelties are very ticklish with their feet and you will need both hands an sharp scissors. Trim round the foot from above first. There probably won't be too much to do if this has been done reguarly. It really helps to keep feet trimmed as the hair seems to go fluffy sometimes if left to grow too long and it makes it harder to shape, plus uncomfortable for the dog if debris accumulates. Then hold up each foot and trim excess hair that extends beyond the pads, remembering the back of the large pad. I like to trim any untidy hair a little way up the pastern to the point of the stopper pad but needs to be done to blend with the foreleg hair.
Back feet are the same but legs can be tidied to the hock joint if necessary. If heavy boned then you can trim quite short, if fine boned then leave more on and just comb it out from the leg and tidy off straggly bits. Comb through the front feathers and hair below the hock on hind legs. Trim nails if necessary - they shouldn't be visible beyond the hair ideally.
Ears! Trickiest bit. I would say on a 9 month you could get away with combing out the dead hair and not trimming if you're unsure. The difficulty is that if too much is removed it can cause the ears to prick and there can be a very fine line as to how much to take off. This part you really need someone to show you how it's done and it takes practice. Thinning scissors are very useful but unless they look very untidy then I would be inclined to leave well alone. I do put talc on the ears to degrease the hair which makes it a lot easier to work but it must be all brushed out before you go in the ring. Avoid chalk as it is less easy to get out and I think makes the coat sticky. I vividly remember judging a class of white rabbits once and when I had finished there was enough chalk on my hands to take on the parallel bars. The rules for rabbits are the same as for dogs so I wasn't terribly impressed by this.
So that's basically it. Don't forget a collar with the ID tag. Mine wear a buckle collar and I have their half check collars to attach the lead to. the last thing you want is for him to panic and slip out of his collar at the show.
Teeth shouldn't need anything doing (don't feed a biscuit just before going in the ring) and we leave the whiskers on. For the show, a houseplant type spray bottle with water can be used to mist the coat and freshen it up. Just brush it in and it will help give a more stand off quality. I have rainwater and a few drops of tea tree in mine and it's perfect. No coat dressing product comes close in my opinion as they all seem to leave a sticky residue and I think that attracts dust and dirt.
Show day:
You will need bait (chicken or something clean and soft is best), somewhere like a pocket to put it and your brush. Don't put both in together obviously! You need a ring clip or safety pin to attach your ring number. At open shows they are given out in the ring so buy or borrow a catalogue in advance so you know what your's is if possible. Arrive with plenty of time to spare. Take a crate with a towel or crate cover and a mat or peice of carpet on top. It then turns into a handy grooming table and very necessary to have somewhere safe for the pup to go and rest. Water and bowl. Also you will need to have a card with your name and contact details for the crate which is a new requirement. Unless you are the only entry, don't go first and try not to be last to be seen either. Don't let your pup crowd the one in front when you are moving or standing. Do talk to him and tell him what a great little pup he is, I hate seeing people standing ridgidly and ignoring baby puppies. Most importantly, HAVE FUN! Win or lose it is only a dog show and your boy is the best dog there without a shadow of a doubt. Every dog has his day too and if you don't win then still congratulate whoever does and thank the judge and steward (they are volunteers).
I can't think of anything else. Wishing you the best of luck and hope you have a great day. If you get the chance, do have a chat to the other exhibitors who will be only too happy to help. Do let us know how you get on.
