Loose leash, help!

SheepOfBlue

SheepOfBlue

Premium Member
OK so we are failing. I figure it is me but I am not sure what to do. Sca doesn't mind his harness at all since that means he is going somewhere (usually fun). I need to carry him out since he is still anti-stairs (learning up). The when I tell him "let's go" he varies from sitting and looking like whatever or taking off. But when takes off he is on both sides (I am trying to teach him to be on the right) front to back and start stop at random. In short he is not good. I am not even sure were to start since I can tempt him forward with treat but that last two steps and he either gets the treat of gives up. If he gets it then he stops.

HELP! this one is important to me as the one thing I really wish Dow could have done is go for walks so this is a priority for me (if not him) :(
 
How old is Sca? I doubt you are failing :) it just takes time.

Personally I wouldn't worry about what side Sca is walking on yet. I'd start with just getting him/her to walk with you. Are you using treats or toy training?

Have you ever watched 'It's Me or the Dog.' with Victoria Stillwell? She uses positive reinforcements and direction changing techniques to teach loose leash walking.

Basiclly if the dog doesn't want to walk, use a treat/toy to get it to move, them praise the dog profusely when they do..

Once you have them motivated to walk, get them focused on you by stopping or changing direction if they start pulling. She is amazing.

I was having issues with Deja pulling on the leash and Victoria's tips helped a lot. It's not perfect but it's 100% better than it used to be.
 
I've always trained my dogs to be on the right. However, if you plan on showing, conformation, etc. they are supposed to be on the left.

So pick a side and use a short leash. You want to basically have it short so that they learn to always walk beside you. I don't like those leashes that retract just because they instill bad manners in their walking. The dog learns that it's okay to sniff hear and run there like a beagle on the hunt. I actually use a bungee type leash. It keeps her on a short leash, but if she jumps or tries to run, it has some give so it doesn't choke her.

Hold the leash straight out to your side keeping it fairly tight but don't choke the dog. Use the leash to keep the dog at the proper distance and at the side of your body. This will help build up muscles in your arm.:biggrin2:

Personally I wouldn't use treats, just praise. And when they are really young you want to basically start with walking up a few houses and then turning around. I started with just walking around the concrete walkway in the back yard. As far as sitting, use a wide belt around the back part of the dog. When the dog won't get up, you just rise their back end, using the belt. They actually now make things that work the same way. Just watch his little manly parts when you put the belt around his middle section. It actually doesn't take very long for a puppy to get the hang of it and then you won't have to use the belt. So I wouldn't waste my money on purchasing an actual item made for that purpose. Talk to your pup in your praising voice telling him "lets go for a walk."

Just do short lessons with lots of praise. Start with maybe 5-10 minutes a day. Shelties are smart and catch on quickly.
 
The basics of teaching loose leash walking is don't pull forward and don't pull back. Pulling engages the opposition reflex(hardwired in dogs) which equals go in the opposite way of the pressure. owner pulls forward = dog sets brakes and don't move. owner pull back= dog pulls forward

Start with him on his nomral walking gear on whatever side you choose. Take on step forward and encourage him to come with you. If he does praise and take the next step. If he doesn't just wait(look forward not towards him) and praise when he moves forward. If he takes off stop, don't pull back just stop and wait when he turns around to look at you praise and continue forward.

Now formal heeling is a whole different ballgame.
You can use food if you want but it not needed
 
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Just a thought of the stairs issue. Have you tried backchaining it. By that I mean. Put him on the last step and have him go down,then move up to 2 up then 3 etc. It is easier for pups to start in the middle then starting at the top. You can do the same for going up. Start 1 from top then 2 ,3 etc Praise like crazy when he does it.
 
Justicemom said:
Just a thought of the stairs issue. Have you tried backchaining it. By that I mean. Put him on the last step and have him go down,then move up to 2 up then 3 etc. It is easier for pups to start in the middle then starting at the top. You can do the same for going up. Start 1 from top then 2 ,3 etc Praise like crazy when he does it.
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Currently I have not worked on stairs since the only ones I have are the front door and garage (2 steps each) Up until recently I was not unhappy that he could not zoom out either. Though now the garage is set for a puppy (he was web surfing last night). Good idea though and I do need to get him used to them for when he visits his vacation home (mom's) which has steps on the deck :eek2:
 
Justicemom said:
The basics of teaching loose leash walking is don't pull forward and don't pull back. Pulling engages the opposition reflex(hardwired in dogs) which equals go in the opposite way of the pressure. owner pulls forward = dog sets brakes and don't move. owner pull back= dog pulls forward
Click to expand...

That is where the belt will help "guide" him. I found that it just works very easy in letting the dog know what you want them to do with little fuss. Used this idea on various animals in order to get them to walk and not balk. I wish I could find the website that actually sells this as a training tool. Then you would be able to see how you are suppose to work it.
 
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