new puppy with 2 yr old son

Hi there! I have 2 sheltie puppies myself. They are 8 months and 5.5 months now. (We'd love to see pictures of your little one!) With my first puppy, I took him home at 10 weeks as well. A 10 week old puppy is the equivalent of a child of about 1 year of age, more or less. You cannot EXPECT a 1 year old child to understand "what you want". And spanking will only cause fear. A dog should never obey out of fear, same as a child. They should obey because they want to, either out of their will to please or because of a positive outcome such as food. Your puppy is only just starting to develop the muscles to hold in its own waste, it's going to take a lot of patience to achieve what you're asking for here.

That being said, I don't really think there is any way for your 2 year old and a very young puppy to "play" safely. If I were you, I would have waited to get a puppy for a few more years. But it is what it is. An ex pen is a MUST for your situation. I think that the only interaction that should happen right now between your son and the puppy is after the puppy has had a good bout of exercise and is about to go down for a nap. He can pet the puppy if the puppy is holding still. But I know how 2 year olds can be and it's VERY difficult to get a toddler to understand that a puppy is not a toy and can be hurt, scared easily, etc. A 2 year old petting a puppy usually looks more like a slap...and with those hand movements, it looks more like the universal play invitation for puppies which is the extended arm that slaps down onto the ground. So it's probably going to be more difficult for the puppy to understand what your son is trying to do.

A toddler also tends to wobble around and walk and act like an injured animal. This is irresistible for all dogs. Your puppy is mimicking the wolf bringing down the deer.

As for the biting behavior in itself, it may be partly due to lack of sleep. He's not going to be teething for a while, so it's not teething that is making him bitey. A puppy at this age needs TONS of sleep. Playtime should only last for about 20-30 minutes before it goes potty and then has another nap. Lack of sleep can lead to behavior problems in puppies.

To solve the biting problem, you must correct the behavior as it happens to YOU, not your son. Engage in play with the puppy, as soon as the puppy tries to mouth you, I would use a sharp "EH EH" (which seems to work better for me than a more even-toned "No"). When this happens, stop play entirely for several seconds. Begin play again, and repeat this process. No matter how frustrated you get, please, under no circumstances hit or shout at the puppy. This serves no purpose except for you to vent your own anger. You should never correct any animal out of anger-only as part of training. The crate should not be used as a disciplinary measure, either. The crate should only be a happy place where your puppy receives his meals, warm blankets, chew toys, and is a safe haven in times of discomfort or fear.

In the meantime, once you are able to stop the mouthing of your hands, etc, I would encourage the puppy to chase after balls, ropes, etc, and then introduce your son into the mix having him throw things for the puppy to chase. While you are playing with the puppy, have your son watch the way you do it. I know, it's going to be irresistible to him not to be able to run around with it, but things need to be looked at from a safety standpoint...the puppy can hurt your son, and your son could hurt the puppy-especially if he gets frustrated from being scratched up. I wish you the best of luck, and training classes will definitely help you learn more about dog behavior and how to control any problems that arise. Hope this helps!
 
I can remember when my son was about two, he would love to color in his coloring book on the floor of our family room. He would only have to turn his body or tilt his head slightly and our Lil Mandy at four months of age, would gulp any crayon she could scoop up in her mouth. Forrest Green, Raw Sienna and Magenta bits of crayon would be stuck in her teeth.

I called my vet at the time in a panic, thinking I'd have to rush our crayon eating puppy to the emergency vet clinic. He laughed and said no, she'd be fine. Don'tcha know, she popped out speckled color poo all the next day.

So yes, watch your puppy not only for nipping and herding, but also for crayons!!
 
Kudos! I didn't even think to mention that, even with my two having me keeping my floors spotless because of everything they've eaten. Hair ties, bobbypins, pencils, pen caps, things I don't even know how they got in my house- my dogs find them all. I've seen Q tips come out of my dogs. One of my dogs got ahold of a Barbie doll somehow and chewed off both her arms. The arms were nowhere to be found. That is, until the next day...chunks of the color "nude" were in his poop. I've had my 8 month old run up to me in a panic snorting and furiously swallowing franticly running for help as he somehow swallowed something he shouldn't have, but he managed to swallow it or whatever and I was never able to find out what the problem was. But it scared the crap out of me! So yes, definitely keep their playing areas separate.
 
Thank you. I do keep the kitchen and living room cleaned of Charlie's toys before letting Boomer out of his kennel to play. We leave plenty of balls and chew toys out for Boomer to play with.

We just took Boomer for a walk up and down the street to work on getting him used to the leash, and for a walk for exercise. Then played in the backyard to run out some energy and playtime. I had Charlie sit in a chair while Boomer had time to run and play, then I held Boomer while Charlie played some.

Once Boomer gets excited he will start to bite at my pants sometimes, then I just pull my leg away and say Eh Eh or yelp. I will keep doing this. He doesn't really let me walk away from him to stop it for a while for him to catch on that I am walking away due to what he is doing. He just keeps chasing me as I walk away and keeps biting at my pants. I just keep pulling my leg away saying Eh Eh or yelping and trying to walk away. I will stick with this until he catches on. Boomer doesn't want to be outside to play by himself, so Charlie and I are always out there with him. I will look into an ex pen.

Boomer does good in his kennel. He gets several naps furing the day and he sleeps during the night. I take him out every couple of hours to potty and play outside, then we bring him inside to play a while. Then he goes into the kennel to rest until the next time out. He is doing well in the kennel and has never went potty in the kennel. He has slept all night since the third night after we got him.

Charlie takes a two to two and a half hour nap after lunch. I spend that time working alone with Boomer and play time in the living room with me. Then he gets a good nap before Charlie wakes back up.
Thank you all.
 
Boomersmom07 said:
Once Boomer gets excited he will start to bite at my pants sometimes, then I just pull my leg away and say Eh Eh or yelp. I will keep doing this. He doesn't really let me walk away from him to stop it for a while for him to catch on that I am walking away due to what he is doing. He just keeps chasing me as I walk away and keeps biting at my pants. I just keep pulling my leg away saying Eh Eh or yelping and trying to walk away. I will stick with this until he catches on.
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Since shelties are herding dogs, he is practicing herding behavior by going after your legs. By you walking away, you are teaching him to herd you. You need to stop walking away from him and pulling back from him. You need to CLAIM YOUR SPACE by stopping in your tracks, saying "EH EH" or "OFF" and if he continues to go after your pants, move forward towards him to back off, and say "OFF". I would stop the yelping at him at stick with the "eh eh". That way there's no confusion...always use the same word/sound and tone for a correction You may find a can of pennies or spray bottle may come in handy in startling him out of the behavior as well. Be sure to reward reward reward!! for him backing off and doing the right thing. Did you do any research of different dog breeds before deciding on the right dog for you? Just curious what made you choose a sheltie :smile2:
 
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Ok. I had an adult rescue Sheltie for three years before I got married and moved into an apartment. The apartment would not allow a 25 lb dog, so I had to find him a loving home. A girl I worked with had 4 shelties and wanted to take him in, so I let him go live with her. I loved Max, and he was so calm with children. He was already housebroken and trained some when I got him. I have loved Shelties ever since and have always wanted another one.

We did look into shelties, and read a lot that they were easy to train and very good with kids. Great family dogs. That is why we went with another sheltie. I am just not used to puppies, and will have a lot to learn. That is why I joined the forum, and have several Sheltie training books that I am reading.

Thanks for your help.
 
There were several I heard from and had seen on training videos that had said to pull away and slowly walk away when he was biting my pants. That is why I was doing that.
 
I find that so odd! I always thought you should never "back down" from a dog, but rather make them back down. Whenever my dogs get after my heels (usually when I turn my back to go upstairs) I just stop in my tracks to block the behavior from being carried out. If I'm not moving, he can't herd me, he loses the game, it's no more fun. But as soon as he sits and calms down, it's MORE fun because he gets my loving attention.

Anybody else care to weigh in on how they tackled their puppy's herding behavior?

And we'd love to see some pictures of your puppy!
 
Hmm I'm not sure I'd agree that shelties are the best family dogs that are great with kids. I find they do better in more adult homes with older children. All of my dog breed books have said the same thing, there was always an X across "Good with children" picture for shelties. This wasn't a deciding factor for me as we have no younger children in the house but with my experience in having two shelties and other dogs in my lifetime, shelties are definitely a lot more sensitive. Meaning they don't like the pulling, tugging, screaming, chasing, craziness that usually is involved with younger children, they don't tolerate it as easily and can become very children-scared or become very shy overall if not socialized properly together in good environments with good supervision/training/etc.

Both of my two shelties, despite attempts to bond with children, have both failed to make any good experiences. I don't blame them. Children that run up and stomp their feet around them, throw their hands in their face, yell and scream and shriek, tug their ears and tails, that do not know how to APPROACH a dog in general are all factors that I've seen. Unfortunately, I've gotten all of those and a LOT more, despite how quick I have been to take my dogs out of those situations, keep the children back and teach them how to properly and calmly pet a dog, teach them how to ASK to pet someone's dog before running up and jumping on them, it's funnny how in all situations, the parents were no where to be seen for the longest time. In the end, both my shelties have disliked children, never grew aggression as that isn't something I'd tolerate either, but they do not approach them at all and stay away from them if possible just because they know that 'the small human beings are very unpredictable, loud, hurtful, and scary'. All in all though, I'm sure with proper teachings and proper supervision of both your child and both your puppy, since both are babies, could end up well - it's all about positive experiences though.


As Dante has mentioned, I too would not continue to walk away while your puppy is still nipping at your feet even after the original "NO". If you are in a stride, walking across the hall way for example and your puppy comes beside you and decides to nip at your feet or jump at your thigh, immediately stop in your tracks and give the correction, "no" so he learns that it isn't behaviour that you want. If he stops and sits (I make mine sit, sitting for Precious is a 'calm' position), continue to walk away and do what you were going to do but if he comes at your again, again STOP, give the correction. It is about shaping to let him know that as long as he is doing what is not acceptable, you will stop whatever you are doing (aka, for him, stopping play time or 'play-with-mommy's-feet-time'). By continously walking, which is what is 'tempting' this bad behaviour and trying to say "NO" AGAIN gives the dog mixed messages. "Mommy is saying no but she still wants to play and is waving her pant legs at me", etc if that makes sense. You DO walk away but only WALK AWAY after stopping what you are doing to stop the unwanted behaviour from the dog. You have the instructions right but I think it may have been misinterpreted. As Dante perfectly describes it as well: "If I'm not moving, he can't herd me, he loses the game, it's no more fun. But as soon as he sits and calms down, it's MORE fun because he gets my loving attention.". The point is to make good behaviours more desireable than what the unwanted behaviours will lead to. It's all about a dogs choice, its up to you to shape the outcomes so that the dog learns that listening to you and doing good behaviours you've outlined will mean good things = play, love, treats, etc while bad behaviours = no attention, "NO", etc
 
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