Troubled in Toronto

Iris

I don't know alot about shelties other than the ones that have come through my rescue. (70). Most all have been given to me because they herd children, bark too much, irritate, outgrew their novelty, bite, were deathly sick, neglected, abused, beat, left outside to die, etc. Mine are mostly seniors so most of that high energy is behind them, but it just sounds like your puppy needs to be trained. Attend a class taught by someone who is familiar with the herding breeds as they are completely different than labs, etc. Be patient with your sheltie, he thinks you are in danger and does not speak English. Shelties will protect their owner with their lives if need be, so feel blessed.
Of course you don't want your puppy to bite anyone. You can use a gentle lead, etc etc. Shelties have to be socialized. If you know of anyone who has shelties (and a fenced in yard preferably)that you can being him to visit, that would help too. But don't expect them to be friends right off the bat. When I bring a new sheltie into our sheltie house, the first thing I let them do is sniff each other through the gate, then offer them ALL a treat so the regulars know he or she is not going to take their food, lol. Then when they are familiar with each others scent, then we give them more time to get to be friends. Probably the first day you would only let them sniff each other (depending on the sheltie), then the second time, let them play a little. Maybe one at a time outside with your sheltie. Start with the shy ones. Leave the ones with strong herding instincts for last. It usually takes 1 to 3 days for our shelties to accept the new furkid on the block, then they are best friends. Your sheltie needs to know that people are not always danger for his master. Socialization helps, but training classes are best. (make sure you go along).
 
Oooooh I like the kangaroo strand ones.. stylish and efficient... teehee ... Wow, thanks for all the help !Sheltie love sent out to all of yall!!
 
I am rather with Barb there, jennygirl...
Iris, do not give up! Keep working … :smile2:

Personally, I also do not like a harness, as it encourages the leap/jumping/pulling... and gives little to no control for the handler... I do not find it helpful in any way for training or otherwise... other than for tracking (I used to track a little with my GSD years ago as a rescue novice) or pulling purposes...

I would make sure I try to block or ignore the behaviour and try to anticipate before Toffee jumps/leaps. Then a No, and away I go, correcting with leash as I try to ignore the bad behaviour and continue walking, if he keeps leaping or snapping... no harm done... and very good that you keep Iris on a lead!
I use the command: “Leave it” for everything including sticks, 18wheelers (he’s a BIG truck chaser, of course) and whatever else I do not want him to pay attention to. I find desensitizing him a little without over simulating a good tool in socialization, so you may want to keep going to that door and then positive reinforcement wherever you can, when she is not being bad! When I walk by people and new situations and Toffee does NOT go ballistic I say and treat: “Good leave it, good leave it”

Toffee was a little shy and still is reserved, and anything new he sees the first reaction is BARK at it... which I think is a more a breed behaviour but completely manageable…

Hope there are some tidbits in this thread you will find useful and can tailor to your needs :smile2:
 
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