Line brushing questions

Like Emmasmom, I use a rake, slicker and pin brush - and sometimes a comb

If the undercoat is very thick, I start with the rake (mostly on the pants), then the slicker and finish with the pin, I line brush with all the tools.

If coat is badly matted (e.g. around ears and even sometimes around the butt, I will scissor, but sparingly and as a last resort)
 
Thank you everyone for all the helpful suggestions! I am going to try your suggestions for getting the dogs laying on their sides.

Tagg said:
Remember to lay your hand on the top of the layer you are grooming to prevent pulling at the root which means that in my case, my left hand continually moves up with each layer while my right hand does the actual brushing. Hope that makes sense.
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I was having a little trouble picturing what Tagg meant here, but I think I may have figured it out.

I found this article, with a photo

http://www.netplaces.com/dog-grooming/brushing-101/line-brushing.htm

Is that what Tagg means by laying your hand on the top layer to prevent pulling?

Also, in the photo, the individual is brushing the layer down, not up. I have been brushing each layer up, that way I can see what I have done because it stands up. Is that incorrect, should I be brushing the layer I am working on down, or does it not matter?


Thank you for all the tips!!
 
The picture is correct... you can do both ways I'm sure, but that is the way I do it. There are quite of few pin brushes out there that are made without the icky ball points. I use the Chris Christensen brass fussion brushes. There is also the 1 All System pin brush that is cheaper and looks nice. Generally every pin brush that you see at a sales booth at a show does not have ball points.
I have a couple of slickers, but I rarely use it. I generally only use them on the short haired puppy coats. My two most often used tools is the wooden pin Chris Christensen brush and my Greyhound Comb. I use the brush for a quick once over after misting fairly heavily with water and then line brush with the comb. I brush my dogs that are currently showing everyday the others every other day. It takes around 20 minutes per dog...
 
The picture shows pretty much what I mean except my left hand would be closer to the roots. The idea is to prevent pulling on the skin by holding it to the body of the dog. I tend to do a larger area as well. Make sure you are doing thin layers and brush and comb right to the skin. Just like your own hairdresser would do on long hair, work your way up from the ends of the long hair instead of just placing the brush at the skin and dragging it down. You'll loose less hair this way and the dog will thank you for not ripping at tangles. If you are grooming all the time you will be able to brush through quickly, if you have left it for awhile you will take more short strokes per layer. I usually start by doing the dog brushing with the grain if they are either shedding or haven't been done for a week or so and then go back over them where I want them to poof out going against the grain.
 
SheltieLuver said:
The picture is correct... you can do both ways I'm sure, but that is the way I do it. There are quite of few pin brushes out there that are made without the icky ball points. I use the Chris Christensen brass fussion brushes. There is also the 1 All System pin brush that is cheaper and looks nice. Generally every pin brush that you see at a sales booth at a show does not have ball points.
I have a couple of slickers, but I rarely use it. I generally only use them on the short haired puppy coats. My two most often used tools is the wooden pin Chris Christensen brush and my Greyhound Comb. I use the brush for a quick once over after misting fairly heavily with water and then line brush with the comb. I brush my dogs that are currently showing everyday the others every other day. It takes around 20 minutes per dog...
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I do the same thing....Start at the bottom mist the fur brush it all up and than starting at the bottom again take sections about 1/2" or so and move your way upwards..holding your hand over the top brushed up sections also helps with the pulling and to make sure all the fur doesnt come down when you are sectioning the fur.

You can also check out Maddan brushes. They are a good quality and about 1/3 of the price of the CC brushes. They sell them on Ebay
 
I do most of my grooming on my bed with the dogs sprawled around me. But I do occasionally use my "lazy susan" grooming table with arm when I don't want the boys squirming around. It's also good for them to get used to standing while being groomed if you plan to bring pup to the groomer occassionally.

Good luck with everything.
 
Thank you everyone!! I think I now have a good idea what proper technique is. Now if I can just teach them to lie quietly on their sides.
 
Tagg said:
The brush that I use didn't have the balls of gunk at the ends but rather a coating. I was introduced to them by a handler and they are awesome. I have 2 left - one for pre bath and one for after. They were made by Safari. If you ever see one, let me know. I would buy a case of them!
I find the rake tends to break hair - maybe I've been using it incorrectly. It's not the end of the world unless you are showing the dog. I might just have to see if I still have one and try it sometime.
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not real sure which Safari brush you have and/or are looking for but I found some online

http://www.cherrybrook.com/index.cfm/a/catalog.brandprodshow/brandid/180/PgStart/1&PAGERMAXITEMS=100

http://www.coastalpet.com/products/...ools&cat=Training Products&cat_id=10&pageno=2

http://www.petsbycsn.com/View-All-b...l&keyword=&sortby=6&itemsperpage=48&curpage=1

Interestingly - I have the green undercoat rake- love it:smile2:
 
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