sheltie barking/growling at strangers

[Biscuit]

We went on another walk today, surprisingly, Christy did well. As we went on our walk, I remembered not to be anxious and try and keep a loose leash. She was more curious, so I let her explore and sniff. We did pass by a yapping Pomeranian, which spooked Christy. She darted, but when she stopped I gave her treats and praise and we walked away. She didn't bark once. Then we sat at the bench and I made her sit quietly and relax. Then my mom decided to go jogging. So when she came, Christy was happy. We wondered if it will teach Christy that people are friendly? Then another jogger passed by, and she didn't bark or growl. I gave her treats and praise in the process. Then when we were done, we headed home with mom. She spooked a bit from another barking dog. Then there were 2 cars in the distance. One coming out, one coming in. We decided to stay a distance, and Christy was focused on me and the treats. So she made lots of progress today .

But I do have a question on leash training. I want her to heel, but giving her a tense leash makes her tense. I want her to explore her surroundings and not be scared. Should I teach her to walk properly? Maybe I should do it at home first?

 

[trini]

<<<< So she made lots of progress today .

But I do have a question on leash training. I want her to heel, but giving her a tense leash makes her tense. I want her to explore her surroundings and not be scared. Should I teach her to walk properly? Maybe I should do it at home first?

Super day!!

Try teaching her to heal not by keeping the lead tense, but by keeping her focus on you when walking....a treat held in your hand by your side can help. Or you can use the "stop,wait and go" method. The second she starts to pull, stop and stand like a statue until she focuses on you and comes back to your side, then calmly start to walk forward again...any pull...stop...repeat until she "gets it" that pulling ahead causes the walk to stop. People may look at you kind of funny when they see you doing a walk/stop/walk/stop...but don't let it bother you. It takes patience and consistency and you may find it takes a long time to go a short distance the first time you try this...but shelties are really smart and she will soon know that any pulling on the lead ends the fun until she calms down and walks nicely by your side without pulling while still sniffing/exploring all the interesting things along the way.

As you have already noted...putting tension on the lead only makes her tense which is the reverse of what you want.

Trini

 

[Hanne]

cut ---
But I do have a question on leash training. I want her to heel, but giving her a tense leash makes her tense. I want her to explore her surroundings and not be scared. Should I teach her to walk properly? Maybe I should do it at home first?

That sounds really, really good, but if you are in any doubt about what you meet will be a good experience, so go a different route, or on the other side of the road, it is important that you constantly focus on it will be a good experience for both of you.
The more slowly you go forward in this way, the more successful you will be, but it takes time. - !!!! Always remember this, it is the way to success. !!!!

Please do not the training of things which may come later, it is much more important that she tackles the ordinary things in a healthy way and that she has success.

Incidentally, she did not learn to walk by your side by keeping the line tight. ( NB : I see now Trini have give you god advice )

Shelties are so quick to learn - in fact born obedient - so you do not doubt that everything will come to you - Important !!! just be patient !!. .

(I've never actually learned Minnie -as I have had in 6 mdr.- to go "heel" or whatever you call it, but it come - as so many other things - quite slowly by itself. when she was completely pressure at me and its surroundings)

 

[Biscuit]

Thanks. I will try out the stop method and see how it goes. I also bought some special treats. Whenever a stranger walks by, there's a scary object, or a dog, I will give Christy something special when she behaves. I found some Blue Buffalo moist treats and mini chicken biscuits, I will use these specifically on walks to make them more valued. Sometime I will add some real chicken or turkey too. Since Christy is very food motivated, these will be great for her.

 

[Hanne]

Then you have really good things ready.

In about 14 days then you will simply see - so turns out the success of the all your great work.
Once she becomes more secure, so things will move fast forward and you get a reward for your efforts.

 

[Biscuit]

We had another walk today, and it wasn't so good. That's because it is slightly busier today. I mainly focused on Christy learning to heel, usually the trip to the park isn't bad, but back, she is much more eager to get home and pulls. We sat at the park as usual while I trained her to focus and soak up the surroundings. A couple were walking by. At first when they were a certain distance, she was watching a little but not growling or barking. I was giving her some treats and praise, but as they came closer then she reacted and barked and growled. Her tail was high, and she was pulling towards them. Soon after that, a man with 2 dogs was coming. So we walked around as I got her to focus on me. I made her walk in the opposite direction and keep a farther distance. She was still barking and growling, but did a bit better because we walked away. I ran out of treats, so we had to go home. We did have one good thing. We were walking, and a car from behind was coming. I made Christy walk over as far as she could to a grass area and we stopped and waited. She did growl a little, but I praised her since she didn't bark and faced it. And she was fine as we walked with the car in front of us.

I'm seriously thinking of joining obedience/training class, not because I want a quick fix, but I want to be more educated on what to do during these situations, as well as learn to communicate with Christy and teach her that I am in charge. At the park, there are some weird characters and unpredictable dogs , so I assume that a controlled class is a much better way to introduce her to strangers and dogs. What do you think? I'm also going to ask some sheltie people at the sheltie club meeting tomorrow and see what they recommend. maybe I will eventually do some agility classes with her. I heard that agility brings out more confidence and trust.

 

[Hanne]

Good ide' with Sheltie club, let's see if they can help.

My personal opinion is still, I did not think you should train obedience with her on your trip, now when you work on the other issues. take one thing at a time, also for your own sake.

Still Important !! Keep your distance so she does not feel threatened, it is this, that can take time when she Powers things at a distance, so you go - slowly (days)- closer.

It is very important that you are not going to give treat for bad behavior.

It is much better to go several very short trips in the same calm surroundings, then go home and let both of you relax, so again you can go a small short trip.
On long trips she must relate to things all the time.

You absolutely need to have a successful experience, so please make things easier for both of you.

Let's try a slightly different way:
Maybe you have some friends Christy do not know you can get to meet you at your little short trip in the normal quiet surroundings as she knows.

You walk from home and have asked 2-3 friends to stay still - for 2-3 different locations, they must stand with their side to you (not the face against you) they are relaxed and looks not just against you.

As soon as you can see Christy begin to lift the tail, gets stiff legs, but she must definitely not start in any noises, then you take her quiet up on the arm, go against your friend, but keep your distance - ask if they want to give your dog a treat, you reach a really good snack for the person who put it in the palm, passes it slowly against Christy while you talk quietly with her, maybe she will not at the beginning take it, but just sniff, then it is ok so you go some steps further and puts her down.
Do exactly the same with the next person. But Christy must absolutely not "make noises", so be sure to keep a distance and talk quietly to her.

So you can turn around when you have gone a distance beyond the last person and do the same on the way back.
This maybe may be done a few days with different people, but you must make sure to relax and keep the right distance all the time.
Let me know if this works, we'll take the next step.

 

[Biscuit]

Hopefuly the sheltie people will know what to do. We will also see Christy's breeder there. I keep forgetting and end up making her do tricks for distraction . I really should just work on focus work. But there are times I want her to sit/lay down to relax. I'm catching on to what I should do, which is giving her distance from people and dogs while maintaining a relaxed body and mind. Which is hard. I feel a bit better after thinking this over. I wasn't in the best mood this morning. I'm still getting to grasp the fact that she hasn't been here very long, were still bonding, and she is still young and unexperienced. I still don't know why she is so reactive to strangers and dogs. She was properly socialized as a puppy. I will just keep going at it everyday.

 

[Hanne]

Sounds really good.
A Sheltie is so sensitive that she feels your bad mood right away, then you already have a bad start on your walk.

Now when you meet your breeder and she can go for a walk with Christy and where you can see Christy can meet strange people and dogs without problems, yes, so she is socialized.

Can read in your last part, that you are on the right track in your perception about Christy - wish you all good luck with your small Christy.

 

[Caro]

Going to an obedience class is a good thing to do, not least because they'll teach you to heel. The way I teach is first to teach a good loose lead walk - so the dog doesn't pull and regularly checks in with you, and you learn to keep the leash loose - using the techniques that Trini suggested as well as constantly changing direction. Heeling is taught in small steps, meaning you only walk a few paces and then stop, walk a few and stop, when you stop ask the dog to sit, always step out with the left foot, because that's what the dog watches. This goes on for a while as it teaches the dog to stick really close, the next progression is walking a bit further, maybe a few metres, and then change direction, few metres, change direction again. And before starting any exercise or progressing on I have handlers heel without the dog - because handling the leash when heeling is actually harder than you think, keeping it loose and turning without tangling the dog.

Something to keep in mind - dogs go through an adolescent fear period, and one of things that may happen is suddenly reacting to people or other dogs. You need to work through this positively and not push her too far if it is a fear period thing.