What method do you like best for teaching weaves?

I'm having some problems now with Juliet's weave entries (she was ok before!). She was trained with weave-o-matics and guides. How do you re-train with 2x2? Would you go back right from the start?

Surprisingly, Romeo, taught with old skool LURING then weave-o-matics (for footwork) is doing great. :rolleyes2: Just needs to build up more speed (he's not really a drive-y dog).

When I went back and retrained using 2x2s I did start from the beginning. I just didn't go all the way through towards the end of the program because all I was worried about was entries. I think their are videos on my YouTube page of the process.
 
I'm having some problems now with Juliet's weave entries (she was ok before!). She was trained with weave-o-matics and guides. How do you re-train with 2x2? Would you go back right from the start?

Surprisingly, Romeo, taught with old skool LURING then weave-o-matics (for footwork) is doing great. :rolleyes2: Just needs to build up more speed (he's not really a drive-y dog).
that is the fun of components training, can take a piece and work on it. You can always go back to one set of poles. I would suggest work one set from all angles and then attach it in front of regular set- first under angle and then straighten etc. work all your angles again.
 
Thanks both! Will check out your Youtube videos. I think I get the idea that SheltieChe suggested. But will need to get a set of weaves with a base then (love working with PVC :biggrin2:) - mine are stick in the ground ones. And the ones at training are 3 poles per base (weird)!
 
2x2, it's the easiest for me. Like Tara I needed to modify a bit to adjust to my dog, ... but doable for ALL dogs, imo
I like shaping I find it's the most natural fit for my style. Plus keeping the sessions short and fun.. and do it daily...
Here is the video my Instructor made for us to get an Idea in the beginning... it took her a few months to get fast, independent weaves with her baby dog the Borzoi... Not an easy thing for a giant breed, weaving... so she did not train 12 poles in 12 days, BUT she definitely recommends it's the best teaching and training method since she started competing over 10 years ago.

Only advice I can think of Michelle is to NOT skip steps if you decide to start training with 2x2, you could certainly go faster and close the poles quickly, because they know it already, but it's really about shaping the value for the entry and independent thinking and muscle memory without hand-holding.
Never any shortcuts for a lot of hard work, are there? lol (she used stick in the ground poles, too... )

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoVFaU3558E&feature=relmfu
and part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ncB4lg9vXgA
 
I learned via channel weaves, but since Koji learned really how to weave during private lessons while I wasn't there, I can't honestly say how he fully learned. I just know he finally got it and then picked up speed over time.

Interestingly enough, I saw a trainer doing some weird stuff and then saw his dogs weaves and thought, that could work. lol.

He used the wires and cages. Basically, he'd put the wires on the weaves, then surround them by x-pen cages. First with cages that are high (like human chest high), so the dog can't jump it, and then let the dog learn it slowly. Then faster, faster, faster. Change the tall cages to medium, repeat with low cages, cages to 6" tall. Then w/o cages, only wires. to lower wires, lower, take one off, take another set off. then voila! strong, independent weaves.

I can totally understand the science of why it works, but dang, I don't have the space for all that equipment, lol.

Koji and I will start up with 2x2 again to work on his entries and independence.

I personally think all way have their pros and cons and all ways work. As to what is best, I think it depends on the dog and what they need to understand. What do I like best? I would do a combination of channel and 2x2. Channel to get footwork and speed. 2x2 to get entries.
 
Weaves

I think my next pup I will do the same as I have always done using the channels and maybe the 2x2 method for entries.I just saw a video of the world team training in Calif.last week and saw Rush doing weave entries that were awesome and he learned the way I learned.
 
I learned via channel weaves, but since Koji learned really how to weave during private lessons while I wasn't there, I can't honestly say how he fully learned. I just know he finally got it and then picked up speed over time.

Interestingly enough, I saw a trainer doing some weird stuff and then saw his dogs weaves and thought, that could work. lol.

He used the wires and cages. Basically, he'd put the wires on the weaves, then surround them by x-pen cages. First with cages that are high (like human chest high), so the dog can't jump it, and then let the dog learn it slowly. Then faster, faster, faster. Change the tall cages to medium, repeat with low cages, cages to 6" tall. Then w/o cages, only wires. to lower wires, lower, take one off, take another set off. then voila! strong, independent weaves.

I can totally understand the science of why it works, but dang, I don't have the space for all that equipment, lol.

Koji and I will start up with 2x2 again to work on his entries and independence.

I personally think all way have their pros and cons and all ways work. As to what is best, I think it depends on the dog and what they need to understand. What do I like best? I would do a combination of channel and 2x2. Channel to get footwork and speed. 2x2 to get entries.
mmm, I think it is all about HOW you choose to train your dog in general. Shaping teaches dog to think for himself and figure out his choices, wires and cages are meant to teach dog by not letting him make mistakes. I have seen weaves being taught by targeting to the stick...am sure there are plenty more of ideas... I just seen in our beginners class teaching grids by gating set of 3 jumps so dog can not run around and only has to run forward- same idea- dog can not make mistake.... suppose to work for some.... again something I would not use because before putting 3 jumps together I will build value for 1 jump so why would I need gates? But there are plenty of people and plenty of methods. I really do not know if one method gives you stronger end behavior over others. I do not think it is what dog needs but what is handler knows and understands and how they understand teaching process.
 
mmm, I think it is all about HOW you choose to train your dog in general. Shaping teaches dog to think for himself and figure out his choices, wires and cages are meant to teach dog by not letting him make mistakes. I have seen weaves being taught by targeting to the stick...am sure there are plenty more of ideas... I just seen in our beginners class teaching grids by gating set of 3 jumps so dog can not run around and only has to run forward- same idea- dog can not make mistake.... suppose to work for some.... again something I would not use because before putting 3 jumps together I will build value for 1 jump so why would I need gates? But there are plenty of people and plenty of methods. I really do not know if one method gives you stronger end behavior over others. I do not think it is what dog needs but what is handler knows and understands and how they understand teaching process.

That's not really true. The dog can make mistakes. He can go around the caged weaves, if small enough, a dog can turnaround and come back out. Once the cages are lowered, he can choose to jump the cage, pop out of weaves, etc. But in the end, the dog learns to go through them, independently, and usually fast.

The basics of the cage/wires is fading them out so the dog doesn't even realize they're being changed. I can't seem to find the study done with pigeons and lights. It's not necessarily about NOT giving the dog a choice, it's about teaching the dog to do one thing and fade out the "extra" stuff.

It's valuable training, just a different way of doing things. And you have to be vigilant about the baby steps of fading. If you're not, and you push the dog too fast, that's when you have issues.

Like I said, I think there are many ways for dogs to learn. I don't think one way is better than others.

I'll leave you with this story. I was in a Calculus 3 class. During the semester, I went to my counselor to tell them that I was having a heck of a time learning. She told me to stick it out. I ended up with a D in the class. I had to go to the head of the math dept and my major's dept to appeal the D and take the class over (so I could wipe out the grade). After going back and forth with the two of them, the math teacher finally said, what part of the class was the hardest? I said, "usually when the prof would take a math problem, start working it out on the board with a student(s) who had issues with it, and then got to the point of the error, he'd go back and show you WHERE the error was. By then, I think I just learned how to do the problem incorrectly". The profs way of teaching was to do it wrong, show where you went wrong, and move on. My way of learning is by doing. So i was basically learning how to do things incorrectly for the entire semester. Needless to say, I was totally jacked up by then. Not only did they allow me to retake the class, they assigned a tutor who would teach me in correct steps how to do something.

BTW, most people in the class got A/B's so they thought it was me. Nope, it was his style of teaching. I had never experienced that before and it screwed me up big time.

My point is simply that just like people, dogs learn differently. Allowing a dog to "figure it out for themselves" may not work for every dog. Just like cages and fading may not work. it may also not work for the trainer, however, because we're the ones training, you should always learn about different methods, understand why they work, and keep them in your pocket in case your dog needs it. So, instead of saying "I would never do that, because...." I think you need to learn to say, "Interesting. I'll put that away in my files in case I need it". Because there will be a day when you will need something that isn't what you'd do typically...but will work wonders. Like I said, even the three big name handler/trainers who have dealt with Koji usually end up saying, "oh, he's one of those, okay, let's modify this". Because he doesn't do what most dogs would do (I think he just wants to be special).
 
That's not really true. The dog can make mistakes. He can go around the caged weaves, if small enough, a dog can turnaround and come back out. Once the cages are lowered, he can choose to jump the cage, pop out of weaves, etc. But in the end, the dog learns to go through them, independently, and usually fast.

The basics of the cage/wires is fading them out so the dog doesn't even realize they're being changed. I can't seem to find the study done with pigeons and lights. It's not necessarily about NOT giving the dog a choice, it's about teaching the dog to do one thing and fade out the "extra" stuff.

It's valuable training, just a different way of doing things. And you have to be vigilant about the baby steps of fading. If you're not, and you push the dog too fast, that's when you have issues.

Like I said, I think there are many ways for dogs to learn. I don't think one way is better than others.

I'll leave you with this story. I was in a Calculus 3 class. During the semester, I went to my counselor to tell them that I was having a heck of a time learning. She told me to stick it out. I ended up with a D in the class. I had to go to the head of the math dept and my major's dept to appeal the D and take the class over (so I could wipe out the grade). After going back and forth with the two of them, the math teacher finally said, what part of the class was the hardest? I said, "usually when the prof would take a math problem, start working it out on the board with a student(s) who had issues with it, and then got to the point of the error, he'd go back and show you WHERE the error was. By then, I think I just learned how to do the problem incorrectly". The profs way of teaching was to do it wrong, show where you went wrong, and move on. My way of learning is by doing. So i was basically learning how to do things incorrectly for the entire semester. Needless to say, I was totally jacked up by then. Not only did they allow me to retake the class, they assigned a tutor who would teach me in correct steps how to do something.

BTW, most people in the class got A/B's so they thought it was me. Nope, it was his style of teaching. I had never experienced that before and it screwed me up big time.

My point is simply that just like people, dogs learn differently. Allowing a dog to "figure it out for themselves" may not work for every dog. Just like cages and fading may not work. it may also not work for the trainer, however, because we're the ones training, you should always learn about different methods, understand why they work, and keep them in your pocket in case your dog needs it. So, instead of saying "I would never do that, because...." I think you need to learn to say, "Interesting. I'll put that away in my files in case I need it". Because there will be a day when you will need something that isn't what you'd do typically...but will work wonders. Like I said, even the three big name handler/trainers who have dealt with Koji usually end up saying, "oh, he's one of those, okay, let's modify this". Because he doesn't do what most dogs would do (I think he just wants to be special).

Koji is special:yes::smile2:
 
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