You just need to teach that there are other options than just "leave it". He is assuming that when he sits and you have a treat that you are doing the "leave it" trick. You just need to show him that he only has to leave it when you say leave it", but if you don't say "leave it" then he can follow. So try applying a new command to the hand lure, something like "here". So "leave it" means that he stays put, while "here" means he follows.
How do you teach the heal position?
- Thread starter BlueBandit
- Start date
BarbV
Forums Celebrity
Hi
You've made some great progress on your training. Leave it and Take it are great steps.
My only comment is that I think you are trying to do too much all at once! Training a pup is always a build on a previous skill learned and perfected. For instance, you're not going to get alot of success with "down" until you've got "sit" mastered.
I'm working with the book by Pat Miller - The Power of Positive Dog Training. It is a clicker based approach but can easily be adapted without the clicker. What I like about it is the logical progression from one skill to another.
It's like with kids. You don't expect them to do algebra until they've mastered their times tables.
I can't remember how old your pup is, but focus on taking baby steps. Otherwise, I think you'll stress both yourself and your pup!
Cheers!
You've made some great progress on your training. Leave it and Take it are great steps.
My only comment is that I think you are trying to do too much all at once! Training a pup is always a build on a previous skill learned and perfected. For instance, you're not going to get alot of success with "down" until you've got "sit" mastered.
I'm working with the book by Pat Miller - The Power of Positive Dog Training. It is a clicker based approach but can easily be adapted without the clicker. What I like about it is the logical progression from one skill to another.
It's like with kids. You don't expect them to do algebra until they've mastered their times tables.
I can't remember how old your pup is, but focus on taking baby steps. Otherwise, I think you'll stress both yourself and your pup!
Cheers!
BarbV, could you post some of the first sequences here ? ie.
1. Come
2. Sit
3. Down
4. etc.
He already know come, sit and down. As your advise, I am trying to perfected those three right now and the hand lure. Working on his barking too, since last time my wife took him for a walk, a neighbor talk about it, she didn't complain, just put William's bark into their conversation (kind of politely reminder,
).
And the one who talk to my wife is lived in the end of our block (about 4-5 house from ours), so I can imagine how those whose house right on our side.
I'm trying those speak and quiet but don't have enough time to get any progress right now.
1. Come
2. Sit
3. Down
4. etc.
He already know come, sit and down. As your advise, I am trying to perfected those three right now and the hand lure. Working on his barking too, since last time my wife took him for a walk, a neighbor talk about it, she didn't complain, just put William's bark into their conversation (kind of politely reminder,
).And the one who talk to my wife is lived in the end of our block (about 4-5 house from ours), so I can imagine how those whose house right on our side.
I'm trying those speak and quiet but don't have enough time to get any progress right now.
Caro
Moderator
Why do you want to teach "heel"? Does he already have nice loose lead walking manners because I would be working on that first - walking without pulling on the lead. Heel is walking with their head in line with your knee. Only use heel in small doses - it is pretty boring for the dog to heel all the time.
Do you have a list of things you want your dog to master initially. There is a difference between the "obedience" commands and basic life skills.
- Sit, drop
- leave it/take it
- wait
- sit at the curb when you are crossing the road
- walking nicely on lead
- a "settle" or "go to your mat/crate" kind of command
- look at me
- a command to wait before running up to another dog (if they walk off lead)
Also really important is a release command (like "okay")- so your dog knows when to stop sitting, dropping, waiting or whatever.
Can anyone else think of "life skills" commands that it is useful to know?
Do you have a list of things you want your dog to master initially. There is a difference between the "obedience" commands and basic life skills.
- Sit, drop
- leave it/take it
- wait
- sit at the curb when you are crossing the road
- walking nicely on lead
- a "settle" or "go to your mat/crate" kind of command
- look at me
- a command to wait before running up to another dog (if they walk off lead)
Also really important is a release command (like "okay")- so your dog knows when to stop sitting, dropping, waiting or whatever.
Can anyone else think of "life skills" commands that it is useful to know?
BlueBandit
Forums Enthusiast
i wasnt at all too happy about what the instructor did last week.
There was one dog having a hard time with "come"
The lady had one of those choker collars that had some prongs in the inside, "they looked painful"
well when the dog wouldnt come the instructor gave a yank at the leash and the collar twisted an made the dog yelp, He hasnt done that to my dog cause he's been so good to me. but it hurt me when i heard that lil dog yelp. The teach thinks its a "gets the dogs attention an makes him think, Oh i better do what he says cause i didnt like that"
Bandit doesnt respond well to that kind of training, an i should smack myself for even using that method,
He was being rebelious to that method of training an i could tell he was unhappy an scared, cause his ears were laying back an had a look of saddness on his face an i was frustrated.
So i took a breather than i felt so horrible.
Went an played with bandit for a long time an he was happy instantly
We trained the next day, an i worked hard at not correcting him, i was more trying to help him, an than i praised him for his good works an was very proud of him cause he was good at his training that day.
There was one dog having a hard time with "come"
The lady had one of those choker collars that had some prongs in the inside, "they looked painful"
well when the dog wouldnt come the instructor gave a yank at the leash and the collar twisted an made the dog yelp
, He hasnt done that to my dog cause he's been so good to me. but it hurt me when i heard that lil dog yelp. The teach thinks its a "gets the dogs attention an makes him think, Oh i better do what he says cause i didnt like that"Bandit doesnt respond well to that kind of training, an i should smack myself for even using that method,
He was being rebelious to that method of training an i could tell he was unhappy an scared, cause his ears were laying back an had a look of saddness on his face an i was frustrated.
So i took a breather than i felt so horrible.
Went an played with bandit for a long time an he was happy instantly
We trained the next day, an i worked hard at not correcting him, i was more trying to help him, an than i praised him for his good works an was very proud of him cause he was good at his training that day.
i wasnt at all too happy about what the instructor did last week.
There was one dog having a hard time with "come"
The lady had one of those choker collars that had some prongs in the inside, "they looked painful"
well when the dog wouldnt come the instructor gave a yank at the leash and the collar twisted an made the dog yelp
I seen a trainer do that. I decided that when Ember comes home, we will NOT be going there for training.
i wasnt at all too happy about what the instructor did last week.
There was one dog having a hard time with "come"
The lady had one of those choker collars that had some prongs in the inside, "they looked painful"
well when the dog wouldnt come the instructor gave a yank at the leash and the collar twisted an made the dog yelp
Bandit doesnt respond well to that kind of training, an i should smack myself for even using that method,
He was being rebelious to that method of training an i could tell he was unhappy an scared, cause his ears were laying back an had a look of saddness on his face an i was frustrated.
So i took a breather than i felt so horrible.
Went an played with bandit for a long time an he was happy instantly
We trained the next day, an i worked hard at not correcting him, i was more trying to help him, an than i praised him for his good works an was very proud of him cause he was good at his training that day.
And that is the exact reason that I do not give "trainers" that rely on choke chains or pinch collars the time of day. Anyone can get a dog to comply with threats or intimidation (essentially what the correction collars do ... "Do what I want or you get hurt"). That isn't TRAINING ... that is THREATENING. People that rely on those methods do not get my time, recommendations, and surely not my money. I refuse to train with anyone that I know uses physical adversives, and as a trainer myself, will only recommend other local trainers that use methods I approve of.
now I agree most of the time one can use positive training methods only, especially with a sheltie. I would never use a choke or pinch collar on a sheltie, but sometimes it is necissary to use a little force. I have a 6 month old intact male black lab that is being a real butt right now! he does not pay attention in our required training class (the other dogs are more interesting than treats), he bites my daughter when she runs, chases the cats. so if it takes me THREATENING him to get him to stop then that is what I am going to do. Now like I said I would never do that method with a sheltie they are too sensitive and smart for harsh training, but other more powerful breeds sometimes they need a little stronger handling.
BlueBandit
Forums Enthusiast
i really dont even know why i got a choker, it rarely comes into use, its coming off today!! what a waste of money
crapppers i gotta get more train me treats today eeek XD forgot almost
crapppers i gotta get more train me treats today eeek XD forgot almost
BarbV
Forums Celebrity
Nicely summed up.....I think these are the basic "life-skills" as you point out.
I also agree that unless you are going into obedience, there is too much emphasis on heel. A nice loose lead and a sit at the curb when crossing is much more comfortable all around.
I think it's just a question of order of priority.
An excellent start for any future training is: Look at me! If you can get your pup's attention reliabily with this, then all the other training goes much easier. Then:
- Sit
- Down
- Come - this is the basic but ultimately you are looking for 100% failsafe Recall (I'm not there with my guys yet)
- Leave it (another safety measure)
- Okay (the release - used for all of the above).
Once you've got those, then you can start adding on: wait, loose lead, etc.
And don't forget the fun stuff! Our pups are very smart and benefit from learning tricks too. It challenges their brains and keeps them out of trouble.
Hope this helps. There is so much out there and so many opinions. I do recommend the book I mentioned before. It's a very systematic method, building week after week.