NEVER thought I would have this problem.

It's gotten to the point where when he is let out to potty, he bolts, running around frantically barking his head off and LOOKING for something to be the reason for the bark.

We have exactly the same issue at our house. Here I was so looking forward to moving into our new house and giving Miko that huge yard to play in... and now I hate it and am about ready to build a dome over the whole d*mn thing so he can't see the trees, birds, squirrels, etc.

As soon as he's out the back door the hyper-vigilance starts... low growling... and then it works up to him bolting out to the back fence, looking up into the trees and barking like a mad man. I've tried snapping him out of it before he bolts, but once the hyper-vigilance has started it's like he's deaf to me. Once he gets a bit of barking out of his system he'll hear me and come running back... but he's only back for 10 seconds before he's watching that fence again and off he goes!.. BARK BARK BARK BARK

I realized early on that if I'm telling him NOT to do something I need to let him know what I DO want him to do. However, I couldn't figure out how to praise the quiet, calm behaviour because it happens so infrequently out in the yard. Keeping him on a leash out there is a great idea. (assuming he's going to be quiet on the leash ;)
 
My dogs have no issues with the fence that separates my patio from my neighbors'. The shepherds back there like to sniff noses with my dogs. But when we're out front, there is just wide open space. So if my neighbors let his dogs out (ALWAYS off leash) then there's a risk of injury because they look at my dogs like they are rabbits or something. Little Bear doesn't bark as much if he's let out on a leash. But sometimes when we're out hiking, he'll start barking madly over something he sees ( such as a dangerous killer fallen log). He barked ferociously for the first time yesterday at bicyclists going along our trail. I picked him up and just turned his face towards me by holding his muzzle gently, and reassuring him that everything's okay, and to be quiet. He continued to growl through his muzzle, but eventually calmed down (he also had an Aussie with us that was contributing to the barking). I praised him and jogged with him to reward him for being quiet. Is picking him up okay during one of these outbursts? I didn't have any treats and I think he was being protective of himself/us ( I think/hope).

As far as my view on Caesar's training. I was mortified on the episode that he was shocking a black GSD in a session involving aggression with the owner's cat. The dog became increasingly anxious and aggressive, causing the cat to claw the owner up out of fear. And Caesar just continued to shock the dog. You can see footage of this on Youtube. Unbelievable. I don't think that pain should ever be used on an animal. But I have to admit I have used startling my dogs as a way to stop unwanted behaviors. (Such as getting into the trash I will clap my hands, or surprise them with my EH EH!) As far as Barb's case I don't think she's doing anything wrong or harmful to her dog's. I touch my dog's to get their attention. It's a "hey you" touch. And it works for me because my dogs really respond well to touch. They LIKE to be touched. So if Little Bear is barking and going nuts over something, I get in front of him as well and ask him to sit. If he's not looking at me, I will grab his collar to hold him still and he'll instantly look up at me and then sit. He might still bark but I've got most of his attention. He just likes to talk I guess. :rolleyes2:
 
Let's not obsess on the Caesar thing that I mentioned. I merely softened one of his techniques as a way to get Indy to focus on me instead of whatever else is going on around him.

I only use it when Indy is in full blown mode and I need to stop in his his tracks. All it is, is me planting myself in front of him with my arm out and a tap to get his attention - as in "Hey, fool dog, I'm talking to you". When dog is in full swing, there is really nothing else you can do to stop them.

I should have never have said the Caesar word because this just prejudices everything. I can't imagine that none of you on the forum have ever not reprimanded you dog with a strong "Hey"!!! If you have never done so, then you should be publishing your dog training techniques and earning millions by now.

More interesting is techniques for preventing it in the first place. Like JusticeMom said, if I'm in the backyard and I happen to see his tail twitch, I know something is coming and I can normally get a recall before he gets going.

So the question is:

1) How to stop if in the first place if you are not there?
2) How to stop it once it starts?
 
1) How to stop if in the first place if you are not there?
You manage it, the dog cannot self reward, the more he does it the harder it will be to untrain!
 
More interesting is techniques for preventing it in the first place. Like JusticeMom said, if I'm in the backyard and I happen to see his tail twitch, I know something is coming and I can normally get a recall before he gets going.

So the question is:

1) How to stop if in the first place if you are not there?
2) How to stop it once it starts?

For the first question, do you ever leave your dogs outside when you are not at home? As most of you know, shelties will entertain themselves when left to their own devices. If they are bored and something more interesting than their toys comes along, they are going to react. But this would be the same from inside the home ( if they see something out the window, etc). But there can be exercises done where you have someone come over and do something that would provoke the behavior and you can work on it. This COULD help shut down the psychotic behavior, but it may just be his personality and it's FUN to go nuts every now and then :smile2:

For #2 I haven't had a dog going totally nuts (yet) since they are still puppies, and they've never been in a fenced in area around our house since we don't have a fence. But what I will do when it does happen (if I cannot get a recall) is go over to the dog with a treat in hand. Grab the dog by the collar or put a leash on, and try to get the dog's attention with the treat, once they are focused and relatively calm and quiet, I treat. I would try setting up scenarios where you could gradually increase concentration-on-you-time, where eventually anything could walk by and he wouldn't deviate from watching you. But this would take months to accomplish (if you have a hectic work schedule like I do anyways).

I did this for my neighbor's Labrador. Every time the doorbell rang, this dog would go nuts, she would knock people in the house over in her frantic crazy running and barking all over. So, I worked on desensitization with her. Ringing the doorbell, and having nothing happen. When she sat and became quiet, she was rewarded. By day 10, when the doorbell rang, there was no reaction. But it's something that needed to be continued-randomly ringing the doorbell during the day so that it didn't revert back to the bell ringing only when people came over.

I'm not sure if you could desensitize your dogs to passersby..be it human, dog, or other animal...but if this is really bothering you, I would work on setting up scenarios with friends to do some training sessions with them. I just got a 20ft leash to begin working on recall during distractions. My voice does NOTHING to get them to come back if my neighbors are out, or if there is a dog down in the parking lot.
 
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Let's not obsess on the Caesar thing that I mentioned. I merely softened one of his techniques as a way to get Indy to focus on me instead of whatever else is going on around him.

I only use it when Indy is in full blown mode and I need to stop in his his tracks. All it is, is me planting myself in front of him with my arm out and a tap to get his attention - as in "Hey, fool dog, I'm talking to you". When dog is in full swing, there is really nothing else you can do to stop them.

I should have never have said the Caesar word because this just prejudices everything. I can't imagine that none of you on the forum have ever not reprimanded you dog with a strong "Hey"!!! If you have never done so, then you should be publishing your dog training techniques and earning millions by now.

More interesting is techniques for preventing it in the first place. Like JusticeMom said, if I'm in the backyard and I happen to see his tail twitch, I know something is coming and I can normally get a recall before he gets going.

So the question is:

1) How to stop if in the first place if you are not there?
2) How to stop it once it starts?

LOL, we all humans so all of us occasionally use some form of NRM or correction/ aversive etc
One thing I like most about present course about Swagger, Puppy Peaks, that some clips show Susan frustrated, when session did not go right, etc. I think those clips are even more educational than "good ones" because you clearly can see how she processes info and comes up with changes...
To answer your question is like that.
You don't let them out alone until you sure their behavior follows criteria you want. You do not let them rehearse unwanted behavior EVER even if its 3 am and your dog just bolted out of the door and jumped into lake, you go after... into said lake clothes and all ...at 3 am to stop self reinforcement:biggrin2:
Law of dog behavior
Sometimes equals Anytime in dog's mind.
If your dog allowed to do it sometime they will attempt to do it always and your criteria will be fuzzy and incosistent...
Simple. Not easy for most of us.
 
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LOL, we all humans so all of us occasionally use some form of NRM or correction/ aversive etc
One thing I like most about present course about Swagger, Puppy Peaks, that some clips show Susan frustrated, when session did not go right, etc. I think those clips are even more educational than "good ones" because you clearly can see how she processes info and comes up with changes...
To answer your question is like that.
You don't let them out alone until you sure their behavior follows criteria you want. You do not let them rehearse unwanted behavior EVER even if its 3 am and your dog just bolted out of the door and jumped into lake, you go after... into said lake clothes and all ...at 3 am to stop self reinforcement:biggrin2:
Law of dog behavior
Sometimes equals Anytime in dog's mind.
If your dog allowed to do it sometime they will attempt to do it always and your criteria will be fuzzy and incosistent...
Simple. Not easy for most of us.

I think it makes sense that there really is no way to stop a dog from reacting to something if you aren't around, so the only way to "stop" it is to not leave your dog outside unattended. But I was interested in hearing your response as of how you would stop the behavior as it was happening. You said you would go and grab your dog if it jumped into a lake, but is that all you would do? Just take the dog away from the situation? There will be times that you can't just take a dog away from something and training them to pay attention to you is crucial.

So, could you go further into the steps of how you would stop the behavior that Barb is describing? What would you do while it is happening? What actions would you take to begin it's prevention in the future?
 
I think it makes sense that there really is no way to stop a dog from reacting to something if you aren't around, so the only way to "stop" it is to not leave your dog outside unattended. But I was interested in hearing your response as of how you would stop the behavior as it was happening. You said you would go and grab your dog if it jumped into a lake, but is that all you would do? Just take the dog away from the situation? There will be times that you can't just take a dog away from something and training them to pay attention to you is crucial.

So, could you go further into the steps of how you would stop the behavior that Barb is describing? What would you do while it is happening? What actions would you take to begin it's prevention in the future?

I am reasonable new to dog training so am being educated as I live with my dogs and often they are far ahead of me but we are all having great fun!
To answer questions- stopping self reinforcement is crucial. So if you in situation when your dog did not listen and went into said lake you go and get him. After you get your dog out you go and hit your head on the wall:lol:
for being lousy trainer...
Seriously, I feel very lucky to see how great dog trainer Susan Garrett trains her dogs first during recallers and now with PuppyPeaks. Example about the lake taken from her teaching. Susan has large unfenced property near Toronto with several ponds for her BC to swim. She hates swimming. As she says in all her years of living there with dogs she only had to go after dogs twice. Now with present puppy Swagger, she will not let him swim in the pond until she built enough value for what she wants- never ever go into pond without permission and recall at first whistle. She will walk past the pond on the leash, play gazillions of games, build enough value for what she wants before letting him to test the waters.Point is, many casual trainers, me included, don't take that first step. We let dog to lunge on the leash and bark at passing cars and only then we start putting harnesses, gentle leaders and snoot loops trying to prevent it. If dog does not know how much fun barking at people passing your fence is, you can SO MUCH EASIER train them to behave well. So you start with a puppy, and train "be calm when people passing your fence" as any other skill you train. Once you build enough value for what you want, you test that value. What if person runs past your fence? What if person skateboards? What if children scream? It is like a bank account- once you have huge stack of positive behavior, things are easy, because value is with DaMama and with good choices.
Not everything has to be trained of course, some things get redirected, some things get managed. If your dog does not like vacuum you might want to put your dog in a car and vacuum house then...
As for fence running, we don't have a fenced yard. In my BIL house we have neighbor dog- anytime my pups attempting to start a fight they go on leash and practice polite behavior, even if we have to leave. Needless to say I am always with them and monitor. Pups have decent recall off everything else. At the dog park when pups get into fence running mode, I just go and hide on them the minute they took their eyes off me. I teach them to always keep momma in the view. If they are too excited I have a squeaky signal I say to let them know "go find momma" We play lots of hide and seek in the house or any other appr safe places. Needless to say, it is getting harder and harder to hide from them:yes:
Susan Garrett teaches us to build the behavior, test the behavior. Give dog choices, control self reinforcement. Accept their behavior as great feedback and embrace holes in our training.
I think much of the training is about how much this or that behavior irritates you. Some people have no problems with their dog running and barking in the yard all day along and some are absolutely no no for such behavior.
It is still possible to change the behavior but the longer it is going on the tougher is to teach new behavior. If your pup has been running fence with other dogs for years, it will take a lot of time to change it. Like a theater, rehearsal makes it perfect:sadsmile:
p.s. my head is often sore from hitting on the wall and my training looks like a swiss cheese after embracing all our holes in it... but we are having a blast!
 
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I think much of the training is about how much this or that behavior irritates you. Some people have no problems with their dog running and barking in the yard all day along and some are absolutely no no for such behavior.
It is still possible to change the behavior but the longer it is going on the tougher is to teach new behavior. If your pup has been running fence with other dogs for years, it will take a lot of time to change it. Like a theater, rehearsal makes it perfect:sadsmile:

That's a great summary! You are 100% correct.

Inconsistency is probably the biggest problem for most dogs, and mine included. The reality is that I DO let my dogs out in the fenced yard unattended (but ALWAYS when I'm at home - they are NEVER outside if I'm away). Unattended means they can break the rules. My problem is that there are semi-attended. The dogs love to just sleep in the grass in the backyard. Of course, I can't be back there all afternoon, sleeping with thim (as nice as that sounds, btw). So I'll let them out and things will be quiet for an hour, and then the ruckus starts.

I hate to keep them inside, but perhaps I might have to go back to puppy 101 for awhile. I'll give this some thought.

p.s. I've been wanting to the de-sensitive on the doorbell for a long while. I know the theory, I just haven't been able to line up the time and a volunteer to work on this. Another project! Sigh!
 
So, could you go further into the steps of how you would stop the behavior that Barb is describing? What would you do while it is happening? What actions would you take to begin it's prevention in the future?

as for actual training of that particular behavior my POA/ plan of action/ would be following
- no more free running in the yard
- walk on the leash
- if there is time when things are quiet and no distractions in the yard, possible off leash with training recall
- possible management by putting second inside temporary fence or closing fence with dark fabric to remove visual distraction
As with fence fighting or barking at neighbors it is just plain distraction training. Distance , Duration and Intensity manipulation. Ok so the dogs next door are out, can you still sit for me? oh you can sit here, can you sit by the door? Can you sit if we leave the yard? like Dr Seuss, can you do it here , there, can you do it everywhere...
I like to introduce new distractions with Crate Games. Brilliance of the CG is such that it trains self control and impulse control easily without even noticing it. Criteria is very clear to dogs and they get it. You can take and move crate anywhere and you already have built in tons of positive choices made in the crate. So I would take my crate outside- can you sit in a crate on the porch? can you sit in a crate on the further side of the fence, close side of the fence, could you do it when other dogs are running, etc? My criteria would be movement of the feet- if dog moves feet, crate door closes- no punishment, yelling or jerking. If dog maintains good sit- jack pot for making good choices. Once we got solid stay in the crate with open door we start practicing without crate, returning back to porch etc.
CG are short sessions of 2-3 minutes interrupted by games of chase, recalls, tugging and fun.
 
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