Trick Challenge #1-March to the Music

Great vid Corbinam, Bentley is doing well. The one tip I could offer (and I know this because I am guilty of the same!) is to be consistent with what you are asking for. Sometimes you clicked for one paw lift, sometimes a sequence of them (unless you were saying or giving a cue for a single paw that I did not see). As Bentley and Lexi can clearly do a sequence I would only click for that, they may at first show frustration and confusion, but hang in there.

Lexi is really getting the hang of it, I think I counted three alternate paw lifts a few times? That is progress! I would try moving my hand away now, so it was purely a signal and not for touch. Do it gradually and click for when she has done the lifts and has both paws back on the ground, then you can start building up the number of strides and add a cue!

Wow, I need to speed up, you guys are doing so well!:smile2:
 
OMG. I go home and totally forget that I'm supposed to be doing this. I think I need to make a schedule or set a timer for all the different thing things I'm supposed to be training. Oops.

And thanks for the feedback. I have an idea how I want to approach this now. :)
 
labgirl said:
Great vid Corbinam, Bentley is doing well. The one tip I could offer (and I know this because I am guilty of the same!) is to be consistent with what you are asking for. Sometimes you clicked for one paw lift, sometimes a sequence of them (unless you were saying or giving a cue for a single paw that I did not see). As Bentley and Lexi can clearly do a sequence I would only click for that, they may at first show frustration and confusion, but hang in there.
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Thanks! I think maybe what you're seeing is me asking for the correct paw to correct hand. So because Bentley is slightly more advanced, I want him to lift his right paw when I extend my left hand, and vice versa. So if he did it wrong, he didn't get a click/treat. But, if he got too frustrated, then I would scale the criteria back and click/treat for just any paw to hand touch/lift. Does that make sense? Should I not do that?

labgirl said:
Lexi is really getting the hang of it, I think I counted three alternate paw lifts a few times? That is progress! I would try moving my hand away now, so it was purely a signal and not for touch. Do it gradually and click for when she has done the lifts and has both paws back on the ground, then you can start building up the number of strides and add a cue!
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Thank you! Because I'm asking for right paw to left hand and left paw to right hand, I think I'll get her lifts a bit more consistent, and then move to the next step--moving my hand away some.
 
SheltieChe said:
I would caution against doing that. Per Bob Bailey "click for action reward for position"- so you are rewarding for ANYTHING that happened between click and reward. I.e. if you clicked lets say for 2o2o position on contact but then went to the table to get your food and returned back to give that food during this time your dog broke 2o2o and is running around you are rewarding for everything, including breaking postion and running. Second- you turning away from dog to find the treat, you are inadvertedly giving your dog time out/ by turning away/. Confusing message for the dog.
My mechanics are still pretty sloppy too so this is " been there, done that" advice.:biggrin2:
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Per Karen Pryor

Give the treat after that [clicking]; the timing of the treat is not important.
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I'd have to agree with labgirl. 5 seconds is a good time frame to try and keep the rewards within. I know there have been times where I run out of treats, didn't know, and had to get more. It didn't diminish a thing about what Koji learned. He knows the click marks the behavior I want.
 
k9kreationz said:
Per Karen Pryor



I'd have to agree with labgirl. 5 seconds is a good time frame to try and keep the rewards within. I know there have been times where I run out of treats, didn't know, and had to get more. It didn't diminish a thing about what Koji learned. He knows the click marks the behavior I want.
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There are mazillions of ways and explanations how to do clicker, I think it is much less important whether you rewarding in 1-2 sec or 5, most importance is what you are rewarding for, because you do reward backwards, so anything that happened between click and rewards counts.
 
corbinam said:
Here's a short video of our earlier session:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEUoB5px7ic
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Pups doing great! I like how they both enthusiastic and eager to work for you! It shows you have good relationship, makes a big difference.
May I suggest trying some sessions with dog beds with sides or on low table, anything that limits criteria of them moving all over. You getting a lot of all feet moving and it will be hard to isolate for clean trick. Another thing might help to get the message across- try some sessions in dog sit position. They need to understand criteria is moving 1 paw. You can rather do short session of stationary behavior like 30 seconds and then release them to run and jump at you as a reward?
 
SheltieChe said:
There are mazillions of ways and explanations how to do clicker, I think it is much less important whether you rewarding in 1-2 sec or 5, most importance is what you are rewarding for, because you do reward backwards, so anything that happened between click and rewards counts.
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For anyone who is clicker training, I saw this and found it to be very insightful.
Are You Clicker Training, or Training with a Clicker?

Is the treat delivered "in position"?

Clicker Training: The emphasis is on delivering the treat as soon as possible after the click (though never simultaneous with the click). The treat is delivered regardless of the animal's position subsequent to the click. The trainer knows that the animal's position at the instant of treat delivery is reinforced, and so, when planning a training session, considers various ways to provide the reinforcement.

Training w/a Clicker: The emphasis is on delivering the treat while the dog is still in the correct position. Treats may be withheld if the dog moves out of position when hearing the click (e.g., the dog forges ahead of heel position or gets up from a sit).
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Interesting. If this is true clicker training, then I learned it all wrong.
 
Love love love Kathy! I probably have every DVD she ever produced. But in the end of the day, clicker is just a tool for me to use. I do not use it all that much only when it is needed.
"CT: The emphasis is on delivering the treat as soon as possible after the click (though never simultaneous with the click). The treat is delivered regardless of the animal's position subsequent to the click. The trainer knows that the animal's position at the instant of treat delivery is reinforced, and so, when planning a training session, considers various ways to provide the reinforcement."
As Bob Bailey teaches" Think, plan, do" You can not think and plan and do at same time. So my initial session is about 10-30 seconds. I find it hardest to think what I am going to do and plan it right so I do not have to tumble to find my darn treat or lost target stick or hey, my tuggy is on the crate, let me get it deal... I find it hard.
this is another absolutely hardest part for many many people.
"Each training session is an investment in the animal's future ability to learn. Knowing this, the trainer sacrifices instant compliance to gain momentum toward the goal of accelerated learning, when the animal has "learned to learn" and training becomes virtually effortless. This is often accomplished by allowing animals to get "unstuck" on their own, without lures and prompts from the trainer." This is a killer, when the dog is stuck and stopped offering behaviors, it is just so easy to whip out the treat and help the dog. But unfortunately dogs never see things same as humans. They do not understand "reward for trying":confused2: You either get rewarded for being able to get yourself unstuck or for doing nothing and waiting for human to help you out.
 
I am SO excited! This is day three working on this trick and Ellie had a 98% success rate!! She went into the down position twice :confused2: otherwise she would have been 100%. She easily understands alternating hands/paws (although she is a "righty").

How should she be at 100% before I start adding knees with hands ?
 
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